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Hello all. We are working on our product shoot for our shop in Bali, and would like to share some of our images... If you have any feedback or advice, please let me know. I hope you enjoy...

Best, Wi Darsih.

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XPro1 and XF55-200mm looking at a patch of particularly colorful sandstone today at a local State Park.

Thanks for looking,
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Close up taken with my Xe-2 and 60mm macro. Classic Chrome simulation. Window light with a reflector. Processed with Light Room.
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Finally got round to buying a second hand xf23 and I've noticed the manual focus ring is pretty damn noisy when compared to my other lens. It almost sounds like a cat purring. Apologies if this thread has been raised before but is this normal??
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Does anyone here have or have had both of these lenses and could comment on optical performance differences? Pros/cons? Rokinon/Samyang at f/2-f/4 and Fuji at 140mm f/2.8-f/4. Fuji is said to have a bit busy bokeh. Samyang/Rokinon probably outresolves the Fuji and has better bokeh too? Would love some hands on experience feedback, maybe even with sample photos, if anyone would be kind to share.

Thank you.
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Using an X T2 I can't seem to get film bracketing to work. It keeps going to AE Bracketing. What I am trying to do is use: ACROS std, +yellow, and +red.
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Hello everyone!

My name is Cosmin Cimil, I`m from Romania and I`m a freelance photographer and blogger.

I made my living as a photographer and I started using Fuji cameras for two years now. At this moment, I use only the Fuji X100T because it`s small, silent and has great image quality. I decided to work for a period of time only on personal work, therefore I don`t need another camera for what I do in present.

I finished the college in photography and another 2 years at some art school. Out of my frustration of what`s teaching in some universities about photography, I started Non-Technical Photography, a blog where I talk about creativity in photography and a place where I share my knowledge about this medium.

I`m very pleased to find this whole community and to read so many great topics and discussions, therefore I`m looking forward to talking with you about this wonderful art we have in common!
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I haven't been posting much lately. Busy with the vegetable harvest, canning and firewood.

Sorry for the misleading title.:)

B&W Fall Leaves.jpg
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With the high ISO capabilities of digital, and much like the adoption of APS-C itself, everyone seems to be waking up to the idea that f/2 is a genuine sweet spot. I never lusted for Summilux 1,4 lenses, simply because the Summicron 2,0 versions were so good, never mind more affordable. It is déjà vu all over again.

Yet, at the same time, we must consider the scale effect when downsizing wide-angle lenses. The 23/1,4 is using 62 mm filter while the 16/1,4 has 68 mm. The difference in area between these two filters implies that a 16/2,0 will require a minimum 49 mm filter, if not 52 mm. A 49 mm might work but for possible hood vignetting problems. Or, to extrapolate a theoretical 14/2,0, this lens need have a minimum filter size of 52 mm. There is no free lunch here, wider angle lenses are physically bigger for a given aperture. Because of their complexity, they cost more, too.

If we are going to have a similar sized 16 mm to the 23/35/50 trio, I suggest a 16/2.8 (or 2.5) seems more probable. That is, what ever maximum aperture would keep the 43 mm filter size or the next size up at 46 mm. Using filter size as a design limit exploits the synergistic effect of keeping a "small lens" portfolio all roughly the same size, weight and hopefully, at a lower cost.

Equally attractive for the f/2,5 or f/2.8 concept is the potential to have even better optical quality across the entire field, ideal for landscape photography. It could help create a brutally sharp lens of high image contrast, while keeping costs lower and size smaller at the same time.

If Fujifilm must go to 49 mm filter or larger for a 16/2,0 it may well beg the issue of keeping small size and most probably have a negative affect on relative cost. 16/2,8 is a more attractive cost and size proposition.

Focus group meetings could indicate which way the crowd is leaning towards, a larger more expensive 16/2,0 or an affordable and more compact 16/2,8. Ultimately someone has to make the tough decision when focal lengths get this short. Let's start here.
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X-T2, 100-200mm + TC 1.4 - Outer Banks of NC (OBX)/Hatteras Island/Hatteras Beach

Follow the leader?
by David, on Flickr
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Anyone know why the Fuji in-camera raw converter doesn't allow us to select an image size for the output? It would be handy sometimes to be able to create a small or medium sized file, for example for web use.

Also, if you shoot raw+jpg and take a picture in one of the non-default aspect ratios, such as 1:1, whilst the original jpg comes out with the chosen aspect ration, this aspect ratio is not used by the converter - the jpgs are always in 3:2. This seems a little odd - would be good to have the option of full 3:2 or aspect ratio 'as shot' when converting. Some computer-based converters honour this - LR I think uses the chosen aspect ratio only, Iridient gives you the choice.

This is on an X-Pro2 but I think it's the same on others.

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The colour shades are fascinating, but if we ever get to eat this one ...?

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Drycreek Photo Digital photo lab profiles has many ICC printer profiles listed by locations, printer model and paper used for many different venders. Example I click New York and all the Costco printer profiles are listed by locations, printer model and paper type glossy or lustre. I add the profiles in Windows in control panel, colors, color management, all profiles, click add and add profiles you downloaded from site. I used the profile for the Costco location in Lightroom when I export by clicking the color space drop down menu and select the Costco location and paper type. Costco for 8X10 uses Fuji printer, Fuji chemicals and Fuji paper. I 'm happy with the results at $1.79 for 8X10 prints. I have a good IPS 4K monitor and what I see is what I get. If you use Costco they have Auto color correct checked by default you have to uncheck that tab to use the profiles.
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Hi folks, I am getting ready to invest in a Mac, and for the price, this is a long term investment for me. So, I am a curious as to whether it would be better to get the 27" iMac boosted to 16GB of ram / 1TB fusion drive. Or would I be served just as well with the 21" 4k iMac with the same upgrades?

I haven't decided yet on the new Medium format Fuji, but I could be quite tempted as we get further down the road with that... I bring that up because I am sure file size would have some effect of 4k vs. 5k.

Anyone have any experience with these two different Macs?

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How do you find it for use with the 100-400?
Ok with the MHG?
Tracking good enough? (I know thats set to get better!) I come from 12 or more years shooting motorcycle road races in northern ireland et al both semi and professionally, have no need of the auto tracking settings available in the new T model, I just don't like leaving too much up to the camera.
Looking for an update to my X-T1 around the year end and the more I've held the Pro 2 the more I like it! I don't currently own the long lens and my local camera store won't get one in! I plan to get that around next April, will most likely be used for critters and the odd airshow but my main interest is and always will be landscapes.
Not interested in battery grips nor 4K nor bendy screens, theres just too much that I don't feel I want on the new T2.
I know I can switch a lot of it off but I don't want it in the first place, I could wait for an XT20 or something but for me it needs to have at least some rudimentary sealing, I live in Cumbria England which is the rain capitol of this part of the world...
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Hi guys,

I am looking into buying a second hand XF56 from eBay, I've been using an adapted Rokkor 1.4 50mm and really love the lens so I am looking to get the Fuji version and benefit from the auto-focus etc.

One of the eBay sellers say they have only had their XF56 a few months along with some other gear so it would still be under guarentee.

I asked if they would include the receipt but they said they wouldn’t as it had their name on it – I thought this a bit strange?

They then added they were selling a lot of Fuji X gear and there were other items on the receipt - I wonder if the fact there were more than one item on the receipt was more of an issue to them than their name. I’d find their name out the moment I bought it through eBay.

I have just replied saying I would be happy with a scanned copy of the receipt.

If they will not even give me that then I think I’ll leave it, sounds a bit dodgy like the gear could be stolen or it’s not really that new.

Does anyone know if Fuji would still honor the receipt even if I wasn’t the original purchaser?

I know the Fuji X gear is supposed to be pretty reliable but after my first X-T1 arrived DOA I am a little cautious, the used XF56s are almost as much as my X-T1 at £500-600!

Thanks in advance.
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Tenors: Doug Lawrence (USA), Nathan Haines (NZ), playing in Auckland.

That's Nathan's dad, Kevin Haines on bass.




Roger Manins behind the lamp!
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Hey, does anybody know if the flashes mentioned in the title will work off camera in manual mode with the xpro2 and xt2 in canon mount? Choosing these two because they have integrated receivers and in the godox case a lithium battery as well. Thanks in advance.
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I am traveling this week and yesterday I had the opportunity to watch a falconry show where they had birds of prey flying freely. To save weight I had left my heavy 100-400 lens home and only the very slow 50-230 with me. I have a ton of pictures where the X-T2 nailed focus even with birds that moved very quickly across different backgrounds. From my experience there would be no way to get that number of good pictures with the X-T1.

I am deeply impressed and glad to say that this time the hype is true. I shot all pictures with Zone mode and Boost on. Didn't use the grip.
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Hi, I bought a canonet camera that came with a small canolite D flash.
Is it safe to use on xt2? I have used an old quantaray flash and it's been alright.
Hello All

I've previously owned an X100 (Black) which was hands down one of the best cameras I'd ever owned. Unfortunately tho, when I was going thru some $ issues a couple years ago I had to decide b/t my Ricoh GR & the X100... and ended up selling the X100.

Well, now I want her back.

My gut is telling me to find another X100 but thought I'd ask advice here first... so. should I re-buy an X100 or look for a newer X100s or X100T?

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Camera Fuji XPro1 (of course)
Lens: Nikon 105mm F2.8D Micro DSCF0424.JPG
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Another image from my most recent portrait session. Just basic equipment was used, my Xe-2 camera with the 60mm and a single reflector. Minimal processing with Lightroom.
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X100S at the Art Expo at Navy Pier on Sunday.
Hizzoner Rahm made the scene. I don't know what he's pointing at.
That's a signed copy of Martin Parr's "Life's a Beach" in the foreground :cool:.

Thanks for looking,
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Gritty with lots of pedestrian traffic. More here.

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So yesterday I went out for a bike ride at mid-day. About 15 minutes into the ride I realized that I forgot to bring my camera bag. Usually I bring one camera with one lens with me in a TT Turnstyle 5 sling bag, selection depending on weather, mood & route. Oh well, might as well just make it a fitness ride.

I guess it was Karma, because almost at the end of my ride (5 minutes from home) a truck darted across the intersection in front of me forcing me to lock up the brakes, launching me in the air in front of another vehicle coming from the other direction. They both had stop signs and I was in a cross walk. I went flying about 10 feet with a forward flip through the air, landing on my shoulder then rolling onto my back the middle of the crosswalk. I am one hurtin' doggie today but lucky nothing broken, not even the bike (not seriously anyway).

So my point is, if I had that sling/camera on my back when I landed I would have probably had more serious problems, not the least of which being a damaged camera/lens. But, . . . . . if I had my camera with me, perhaps I would've stopped somewhere during the ride to take a shot or two, thus changing the time of my arrival at that intersection.

Been pondering this off and on all day, so I thought I should share it. Thinking about using a rear mounted rack bag in the future.
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While working on some post production stuff at a local coffee shop, the lighting inside was perfect for black and white. These photos were taken over the period of two hours, as people came and went. XPro-2 ISO 4000 with the 18-55, Jpg. High contrast seems to work for me. Enough messing around, got to get back to work...




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I have set the little right help screen for MF, and now that I want to get rid of it, and go back to regular magnifier MF, I can't find, for the life of me, where in the menus that function is explained. Can you help?

Thank you.
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Both were taken with the XT-2, 35mm f/2, @f/2, iso 1600, 1/40. I was using a monopod.

lacey2w.jpg laceybotw.jpg
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great little craft distillery in louisville, ky preparing for tonight's event. fuji xt-2/16-55.
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Hey guys,

I'm quite a lurker here but I'm looking for some advice. I've been using the Fuji X system for over a year now and I love it. I've recently taken delivery of my X-T2 which is excellent. I currently have the following lenses:

16-55 (bought to replace 18-55)
35mm (f/1.4 version)
Pentax 50mm with Fotodiox adapter

I was initially happy with the 16-55 as it allowed me to use f/2.8 for my aurora / astro images with the flexible focal length, but as I started to use it for my landscape work I became less impressed with the output images. My aim was to carry the 10-24 and 16-55 for flexibility ease on a recent hike, but on returning and looking at images I wasn't particularly impressed as there seemed to be a 'blurring' or softening from 20mm to 25mm. The wide end and 35mm to 55mm seems to be fine and results are good.

I decided to run some tests against my 10-24 at 24mm (arguably where the 10-24 is weakest) at f/8 and here are the comparison crops (no processing, default sharpening, tripod mount, manual focus method, self timer used, LR 6.6.1 converted to TIFF then JPEG):

Centre frame - 16-55 is really sharp

centre-frame +1.jpg

Left mid-frame, the 10-24 is noticeably better here with the 16-55 very noticeably mushier than the 10-24

left-midframe +1.jpg

Right mid-frame, the 16-55 exhibiting the same detail 'smear'

midframe-right +1.jpg

Extreme bottom left corner, i'd say the 16-55 has the edge here

extreme-bottom-left-corner +1.jpg

My 16-55 seems to be great in the centre, decent in the corner but somewhat disappointing in the mid-frame. As I result, I sent the lens back to Fuji UK for repair - it was returned with a firmware upgrade and "within specification" on the job slip. Maybe my 10-24 is a very good copy, and my 16-55 is just average?

I've been reading quite a few opinions of the 16-55mm on here and it's got mixed views - as I've done more landscape images I'm reaching for the 10-24mm most of the time and then the 27mm and 35mm for anything greater. For the record, the primes are MUCH crisper and sharper across the frame than my 16-55 which doesn't come close. The images from my primes have so much more punch and detail.

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Fuji XE2 and XF 23mm/1.4 in-camera pan.
Valhalla Area.jpg
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I have mine as I pre ordered, however other half is waiting patiently for his via Wex.

Anyone seen sight of deliveries after the initial pre stocks or some idea of delivery? I know a few people are waiting for theirs still, so its not looking promising.

UK thread :)


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I posted this in a thread that is in the XPro-2 forum. Figure I would start a thread in the X-T2 forum to see if anyone is having similar issues and perhaps someone has any thoughts on how to remedy this issue.

I am not applying any presets on import. I have "reset" the RAW file in the Lightroom develop module and nothing happens.

When looking through the EVF the image looks good...just as the JPG appears. RAW files are underexposed JPGs are fine. The histogram for the JPG is perfect....the RAW JPG is a bit to the left, underexposed.

Here is an example of RAW verse JPG. In each screen cap the left image is center weighted and the right multi. I notice the center weghted file is at a higher ISO 2000 vs 1600. Camera was set to auto ISO, aperture priority and exposure comp 0.

Screen capture of JPG straight out of camera

Screen capture RAW straight out of camera

Comments, thoughts? Thanks in advance!
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Project: Scenes from daily life: India & Nepal
Picture: Serene gaze. Pink City, Jaipur, India
Equipment: Fujifilm XT-1 + XF16mm R WR
EXIF data: ISO 1600 f/1.4 1/500seg
Follow my work on my site:

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