We all watch TV and or go to the movies or create our own video’s but have you ever wondered how moving pictures came to be? Who was the first to use a high speed shutter to stop action and who may have been the first to use an electronic shutter. Check out our brief review of “The Inventor and the Tycoon”. Had it not been for a courts failure to convict a killer, despite the fact that he never denied his crime and there were numerous eye witnesses to the event, the invention of moving pictures might have taken a different route.
This may already be known, but Photoshop Express on the iPad can handle RAW files including the X-Trans sensor files from my X100S.
I tested by shooting our black fireplace very underexposed (no fire going) in RAW only and JPEG only modes.
PE told me the file was RAW and gave me the option of which to open. I chose Original and proceeded to lift the exposure.
I was gobsmacked!!! Added a touch of noise reduction (RAW files have none anyway so no surprise here) and WOW! Saved it and checked EXIF and the file was full size!
Tried lifting the JPEG and you know the result. Unusable.
I imported using the Camera Connection Kit.
Snapseed also recognized and handled the raw but the lifting was far less successful than PE Express.
Works with files from my Canon 6D as well.
Anyone know of other apps that truly handle RAW files? The capability is said to be included in iOS 10 in the Fall as well.
One of my horizontal pictures displays vertically (on its side, if you will). All other horizontal pictures display horizontally. Can't find any way to correct this in the manual. Also, how can I get a vertical picture to display horizontally so that it fills the display screen (if this is possible)? Thanks for any help
After using my recently purchased X-E2 for a week, I decided to update the firmware to the latest version. Namely, 4.01.
My camera came with version 1.00 installed and I carefully downloaded version 4.01 directly from the Fuji website. This is not the first time that I've downloaded firmware so I know what I'm doing. All went well with the update and the camera is working perfectly (with some nice improvements), with one exception.
When I try to download the files to my PC (Win 8.1) using a known-to-be-good USB cable, my PC doesn't recognize the camera at all. Prior to the update, the camera was instantly recognized and downloads via USB were no problem. Using that same cable, my PC finds my X-30 just fine. Using the same port, I can download perfectly from my X-E1 and X-30 as well as a few other cameras.
I can download files from the X-E2 using a card reader with no problem at all. What's going on here? I know, from searching this site and elsewhere, that others have also had this issue. What I'm not finding is a solution that doesn't involve returning the body to Fuji for some surgery.
I can work around this issue by using a card reader, but I've always downloaded via USB cable as I find it easier than having to remove the card, download the files and then replace the card. I can live with this, but it bothers me that Fuji seems to have screwed the pooch with 4.01 with no indication of a fix being in the works.
Is anyone aware of a "home remedy" for this issue?
Finally, after a long wait, I had the opportunity to meet and take pictures of the beautiful and enigmatic Little Owl (Athene noctua), one of my favorite European birds, and probably the cutest bird I’ve ever seen.
This little fluffy raptor measures around 21 cm in length with a wingspan of 55 cm (both male and female). Its weigh is about 170 grams. Its plumage color is brown and grey spotted with white. Its big yellow eyes stand out giving the bird a funny frowning expression as you can see in my new article on my website: Come check it out here: Little Owl Photo Hide
I show you one of the pictures of the article. You can see the rest of them on the article.
Little Owl - XT-1 + XF100-400mm f4.5-5.6 LM OIS WR
Hi! I've been going through my images from my first trip to Cuba - when I got hold of my original X100 on launch day, the day before I left! Hope you like them, I'm quite happy with what that little camera could deliver. Edit: Sorry for so many images, turned out to be more that I wanted to post than initially thought.
I've sold my Nikon D7000 and all bits and bobs relating to a DSLR..I have an X30 and want a bigger sensor Fuji, I very much enjoy street and urban as well as candid/documentary people/portrait style photography..my budget is £800 and I'm swaying to the X100t..or should it be the XE2s which will add the interchangeable lens capability into the mix, but on the other hand I'm into 'back to basics' approach and use a fixed focal length and move my feet!
Your views would be appreciated
Having recently purchased the X-Pro 1, and then an X-E1 and been impressed by the ease of use and image quality I decided to take the plunge and get the X-T1.
I have not been disappointed. It's a great camera!!
The only thing left to do now is clear out my m4/3 collection on eBay, maybe I'll keep one just for funzies.
When I finally get some shots good enough to post I'll put them up here.
Looking forward to sharing with the crowd and getting feedback.
But...I scored one on CL for $1100 after selling off the two lenses it came with. Also, it came with a receipt and is still under warranty. Lucky me! The X-Pro-2 is so fun to shoot. I loved my XT-10, which I just sold, but there's something special about the look, feel, quickness, and sound of the X-Pro-2. I'm in love again after having the X-Pro-1 last year and selling it. I also repurchased the original X-100 because that was my first Fuji camera, and I loved it more than all the other X-100 cameras. Now it seems all is complete...until the XT2 comes out =p
X-T1, shutter speed 1/180, at ISO 200, lens 35mm f1.4 set to f3.2, Yongnuo YN-560III Speedlight in Octagon Softbox some outdoor light coming in from camera right.
Taken with Canonet QL17 fixed 50mm lens. Scanned from Kodachrome slide. A sheer 1900ft drop to the sea these days very attractive to base jumpers. Completely deserted at the time but probably not so today now that access has been eased with a path. A stupendous view, well worth the effort and still tempting 34 years on...but thinking about it and doing it are two different things...
Once again I am looking for some thoughts on the composition and tones of a black and white image.
A little context for the image, I live next to an army Barracks, that is occupied by the Royal Engineers in England, lately I have been thinking of all the people that I have known and lost that have been part of the military in recent conflicts, I decided to take a self portrait next to one of the fields that they regularly have late night exercises in.
I decided on the scream as a "scream of many, that is heard by few."
I'd love to hear your thoughts again, thank you very much.
Shot on an XT10 with the 35mm f2
National Camera Day – 15% off Digital & 25% off Film Gear. Use Code CAMERADAY.
Bought the 18-55 in EX+ for $288 after discount with free shipping (CONUS only I think).
I read this concern in a review of the lens:
"I’m not convinced that letting the weight of this lens pull down on the X-T1s lens mount for extended periods of time is a good idea either. There’s a good reason Fuji includes the tripod collar to distribute that weight on a monopod or tripod. I was too paranoid to find out what would happen if you let the 50-140mm f/2.8 dangle from the lens mount for too long, so I always found myself cradling the lens in my left hand while holding the camera in my right. The weight of the lens demands some respect in that way."
I will use this lens on a tripod but do not want this all the time. Has anyone experienced the possible negative effect on the X-T1s mount? Or is it recommended to buy a strap that lets you attach the it via the tripod socket?
Review site: Review: Fuji XF 50-140mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR Lens
Pretty amazing technology for doing car ads,
My first outing with the X-Pro2 since getting a new one from my wife as an anniversary gift (her gift topped mine to her). We had already planned a trip out to Lake Michigan, but the waters were deemed unsafe due to the waves and wind. So my daughter had the X-Pro1 and the 16mm and she is a challenge to photograph. I got behind her on the beach and yelled her name and was able to get a decent shot of her.
OK, so I picked up the EF to Fuji adapter and was terribly disappointed as there was no way to control aperture. Then yesterday I noted a thread complaining this fact and someone commented the reason the FD adapters are so popular is that the old FD lenses have an aperture ring same as Fuji lenses. So digging into my closet to locate the 30 year old AE-1 system I had, I find I have three FD lenses.
The 28mm f2.8 not so exciting as my 27mm f2.8 Fuji is likely a duplicate
The 50 f1.8 should be very interesting as with the crop factor makes a 75 f1.8 and I don't have a prime in that range or that speed.
The 75-200mm was my favorite as I enjoyed the zoom back in the day, but after looking at it I noticed not only does it have an aperture ring, but it has a Macro ring as well!!!! Now THAT really fascinates me. I enjoy close up photography and never knew this lens had Macro capability.
The FD to Fuji adapter is now ordered so I should get to play with it next week some time. 30 years ago I really enjoyed these lenses, but had NO knowledge - It was Automatic all the way. I know theses lenses put out some great pictures back then. So I am a bit excited to realize this idea has some great possibilities!
Does anyone else own the 75-200mm Macro? And can provide some input on how well it works?
Someone mentioned to me that Fuji now has a much longer lasting battery available for pro 2, pro 1 and Xt-1 etc.?
I am just back from an 8 day river cruise taking only my x-100T, TCL and i40 flash. On loading the 1780 raw images (64GB card) into Lightroom cc I see that many of the standard lens images that used the i40 with the supplied diffuser, contain flare.
The standard lens sees the light from the diffuser base I will put black cloth tape on the lower surface which should eliminate the problem.
Fortunately Lightroom cc and photoshop cc have a Haze filter that is quite effective in removing the flare.
Morning all, just a quickie . Is it worth updating my XE-2 and lenses firmware to the latest for the improved manual focus functionality . I can't seem to find anything on the internet about it .... Cheers all
Have any of you managed to get thumbnails of RAF files visible in Windows 10 Explorer? I only shoot RAF so do not have in-camera jpg for display.
I do not want to use a separate image reader its just that when working with Lightroom cc import it would be useful to see the thumbnail in Explorer when Lightroom cannot find the images to image from my Lexar Pro reader (as is happening just now).
Some are saying that the Windows 8 codex works but other say it does'nt.
I have stumbled (maybe not literally) upon a way to improve my "photographer's eye."
I was adding on a few extra kilos (or pounds if you're in the US) and needed to get some exercise. I decided to grab my camera and go out for a walk every day after work, weather permitting. I have 4 lenses for my X-T1 and I take just one for each day. It's amazing how, when you have just one lens, you begin to assess the world from that viewpoint. You become much more selective about what you choose to look at and look for. It's helped me to improve my ability and become more familiar with the capabilities of my camera and lenses, although I'm not sure how much it has done for my weight.
It occurred to me I'd never used the 18-55mm at 18/2.8 for a go at the night sky. We don't use this lens for astro with good reason I suppose, but that's not a reason to forget about it.
Curiosity killed the cat, but satisfaction brought it back. While not good it's neither a shocking image overall, perhaps even a little harder around the edges than the 18/2 I sold last year. Anyway, it was worth a play.
The standard 30 second iso1600 treatment manual focus with peak assist etc.
MW 18-55 28-6-16
I revisited my raw development workflow after upgrading to an X-Pro2 (love it).
I decided to adopt Silkypix RAW FILE CONVERTER EX 2.0 over my longstanding Adobe Photoshop workflow. I wish I had switched long ago. For those weighing their options, I’ve listed my pros and cons, and a few notes on the Silkypix workflow.
There are many good reasons to choose PS, not least of which is the software’s ergonomic efficiency and layout. Many people familiar with PS (like me) immediately dismissed Silkypix, which is admittedly a lot quirkier than PS.
In spite of this, Photoshop has its own list of annoyances, including inferior XTRANS demosaicing algorithms, CC licensing fees, abandoned raw support for existing non-CC licenses, and inferior denoising, sharpening, and processing tools without add-ons like the (now free) Nik Collection.
Silkypix addresses all of these downsides, with additional benefits of Fuji film simulations and very useful/different/orthogonal raw development functions that are missing in PS.
The results from Silkypix are a lot better, and I’ve found my efficiency to be comparable to Adobe’s better UI—the basic functions are highly similar. And Silkypix will create .tif’s if you’d like to follow up with any PS or Nik processing.
Here’s a workflow that I’ve found to be comprehensive and efficient, based on the X-Pro1’s old Silkypix guide <http://fujifilm-x.com/app/x-pro1/en/pdf/x_pro1_photographersGuide_enSILKYPIX.pdf>:
Environment setting>Function setting>Performance>Cache settings>Maximum
Environment setting>Function setting>Target of the one click exp. bias>90
Environment setting>Function setting>Target of the highlight warning>99
Environment setting>Function setting>Target of the shadow warning>1
Click on appropriate icons to bring up various panes.
- Open panes: Combination mode, Image Properties, Histogram, Tone curve, Rotation/Digital shift
- Color: E.g. VELVIA/VIVID, ACROS
- Tone: E.g. Average contrast
- Sharpness/Noise reduction: E.g. Natural fine
- Highlight controller: Dynamic range
- Display warning: Enable highlights
- Shading: Lens aberration controller>Shading, e.g. 90, -10
- Fine color controller: E.g. skin lightness, sky
- White balance adjustment: e.g. slight color cast in the same shade as the main subject
- Tone: Gamma histogram adjustment, Black level, e.g., prefer deepest shadows almost clipped into black
- Display warning: Enable shadow warning
- Rotation tool (upper RHS of pane): use to draw horizontal line for auto-rotation
- Taste/Parameter: Taste+ Registration, All categories…> all except White balance adjustment, Tone curve, Highlight controller, Rotation/Digital shift, Fine color controller
- New photo settings: Taste/Parameter>Pulldown menu, select saved taste
- New photo settings: From original photo, Parameter>Copy development parameters, then select a single or multiple photos, then Parameter>Paste development parameters. Use Command-C/Command-V
- Partial taste: Taste/Parameter: Taste+ Registration> select a specific category and save. Select that taste from the category-specific pane’s pulldown menu. For multiple images, click the right-arrow icon next to the pulldown menu (section 184.108.40.206 Applying Tastes to Multiple Scenes)
I decided to join the Fuji universe. I have been on the M43 side of mirror less cameras for the last few years. I have a Oly E-P2, Panny G5, Panny GF3. I've been craving to get into Fuji for some time so today I picked up a used mint X-E1 with grip (no lens). I mainly shoot with adapted lenses so I have ordered both Minolta Rokkor MC/MD and Canon FD/FL adapters. I have tons of old glass and can't wait to get shooting in this new format. Even with no ability to shoot as of yet I'm getting familiar with the menu and setup. Looking forward to being an active member.
I was a huge fan of the X10and X20- in fact, the X10 was my gateway drug to the whole X Series. So, I was pretty excited when they introduced the X70, which has the full 16MP X-Trans sensor.
I just finished writing my full review of the X70- it's one hot little camera! You can read it here on my blog.
Anyone else like this little camera as much as I do?