I am thankful that I live in such a beautiful place.
Every time I get Fuji XT1 RAWS into Lightroom - when I go to pick a white area - the RGB values are always high on the blue with red and green being equal - LR always wants to add red/orange on any auto WB - is anyone else having this?
After a fairly short hiatus of a little over a year, I am planning on returning to the world of Fuji as soon as I am able to arrange finances to purchase an X-T2 with its kit XF18-55mm & also an XF35mm f/2; hopefully it will be in the next few weeks before the reduced pricing goes away on at least the 35mm. Then I will slowly make my way back to possessing a limited collection of the most petite primes made by Fuji. Some time ago, I started out with the X-100 shortly after it arrived on the scene, with a steady progression to the X-100S, X-E2 & X-Pro1, with a small arsenal of Fuji glass to go with them. All of this was in search of a rangefinder I could afford after leaving the DSLR world (numerous Nikons, ending with D7100). But when my accumulated Fuji gear was equal to the value of a very used Leica M(240), I made that trade, & must admit that I was a very happy camper. That is until some aging eye issues prevented me from being able to accurately focus any longer with the RF patch. So the M became a Leica Q with its wonderful AF & quite capable MF as well.
I thought I might be able to live forever with just the fixed Summilux 28mm f/1.7 lens & have to say that I am getting very comfortable with it & cropping less & less, mainly for compositional reasons rather than focal length. But I truly miss much of what I enjoyed with the Fuji X trans sensors & their truly excellent cameras & lenses. I've also grown to appreciate what can be done with a top level EVF, & for the first time thinking I can make do very well without the traditional RF optical finder. So the new X-T2 has come along at a most opportune time, & I am also looking forward to becoming reacquainted with this forum & the outstanding camaraderie & support that exists when working with Fuji gear. But this time I am going to work hand in hand with both the Q & the X-T2, with two of the best electronic finders & AF capabilities one can have these days.
What AF settings (AF-S, AF-C...) and technique would you recommend to snap very young children, who, as you know, won't stay sill for more than 1 second and a half? The camera is the X-T10 or the X-T2 and the lens would be 27/2,8, 23/2 or 35/1.4. I am not faniliar with AF-C because I almost never used it, but I suspect this would be the setting to start from. But that's about it. Thank you for your help.
In spring I got one of the first X-Pro2 in Germany. I liked the camera a lot, but I had not much time during summer.
Then in Oktober and November I had some vacation in Japan which was directly followed by a working trip to Taiwan. Of course, I had my X-Pro2 with me.
How did it work out for my style of travelling light? Light means one small cabin size trolley and a daypack backpack with the camera bag inside. For nearly 6 weeks.
I took my X-Pro2 and the 14mm/f2.8, 23mm/f2 (bought two days before leaving), 35mm/f1.4 and the 56mm/f1.2. No zoom this time, a first for me.
Camera and lenses were packed in a small A4 / US letter size messenger style shoulder bag. I padded the bag by folding an inner bag out of a huge padded camera wrapping sheet, the kind that has velcros at each corner. I put a foam padding at the bottom, below this inner bag.
The camera and the lenses were additionaly packed in their microfiber cloth bags. I was really happy not lugging around a huge bag that shouts "CAMERA".
The bag has a zipper for the main compartment with an additional flap over it. No dust will get in, long fingers that don´t belong there will have more trouble getting in and nothing will fall out accidentally. Such a small bag is highly portable, even in the very crowded Tokyo subway during rush hour. Much better than a backpack. For longer trips this little bag will stow in my backpack. Perfectly sized bag!
Well, It got out of the way. That is the best that can happen with a camera to me.
I did set it up with three different Auto-Iso settings and shot raw+jpg. Raw for home and jpg to send photos while on the move. Metering was set to multizone for daytime and integral when it was dark, so as not to lose all the great neon signs.
The only problem with the camera is the exposure compensation dial, which will move by rubbing on my clothes again and again, when I carry the camera on the neckstrap. Really annoying, this dial should have a locking button, just like the exposure dial.
I bumped against a lot of stuff with the camera but it shows less wear than my X-E2 did after a similar journey.
Big bonus for this camera: people are still very friendly when they see this camera. I try not to "steal" photos of people, I try to approach them from quite close a distance and all my photo requests were granted. People react friendly to this camera, I am not hiding behind some kind of clicking Darth Vader DSLR mask while breathing heavily from carrying it!
Set up with the 56/1.2, optical viewfinder only and electronic shutter, I could take a few photos during a ceremony in a buddhist temple at night. This with the blessing of one of the monks. Stealthy and quiet if necessary.
I had 7 (yes!) spare batteries with me, as my X-E2 before easily went through 3 to 4 of them on a busy day. The newest Firmware with all the eco functions finally makes the X-Pro2 a travellers camera again. Not having OIS on the prime lenses also helps a lot. I used one or maybe two batteries a day on the X-Pro2 during this trip. Still, some batteries die without any warning.
I finally have a camera again where I don´t have to worry if I will spend a night at a place without electricity. Still not on the level of my Canons before though ... .
Traveling with primes.
Ahm, yes. I did wish I took a zoom sometimes. But then, I felt quite comfortable just shooting with the lenses I had. It got me thinking differently about the shots. Will it look different when using another lens? And I did not take every shot that may have been present when carrying a zoom. But this is not a bad thing. My yield is not different when compared to my other travels in the years before. Of course I didn´t get some shots I would have with a zoom. But I miss shots with a zoom also.
The 14mm and the 35mm performed great as usual. The 56mm was also great. But it is just to heavy. Carrying the 56mm makes the whole kit very heavy again. But I love the photos I get with it.
The 23mm/f2 lens is a different thing. I am still not really happy with it when shooting in the dark. Bright light sources often get a huge halo around them, this is sometimes very annoying. No other lens does this. On the other hand, it is a joy to use during daytime with great image quality and camera and lens together are really light.
I changed lenses regularly, sometimes frantically. I got some dust on the sensor. It went away again. I had to use a blower once. No big deal.
I did not miss OIS as the lenses were fast enough for everything handheld. I have some images that are blurry due to my shaky hands, but very few.
As long as it is not a safari I will continue to travel with primes only.
The Zen of prime lenses I like it. It is new for me.
Finally: yes, the bag with all the lenses inside was sometimes very heavy. But still much less weight than my former EOS 5DII with the two "L" zooms that I lugged around. And too many available lenses make it difficult to decide sometimes. The 14mm and the 35mm/f1.4 may be my only lenses for the next travel. Well, and the 23/2 for bad weather and the 56/1.2 for these beautiful compressed shots and portraits ... . Damn.
I have a reasonable collection of vintage Konica SLR cameras that includes five bodies in excellent condition plus 14 or so Hexanon AR lenses. All of this gear is pristine. Several lenses will probably remain in inventory, adapted for Fuji X bodies, but the remainder is simply gathering dust. So ...
What methods can readers recommend to unload this gear in a manner attractive to buyers, yet simultaneously not involving long-winded negotiations, adverts, packaging, Ebay aggravations, etc.? Bulk sales would work (and yes, I'm lazy).
My fuji journey continues. I started way back when the X10 came out and it continued via X100, Xpro1, XT1. I have thoroughly enjoyed all of them and now having bought a XPro2 I am really pleased with the upgrade. I always missed the rangefinder style and hybrid VF after selling the Xpro1. The XT1 was fantastic with its EVF, but i still like having the OVF of the Pro2. There is always some elements of re-learning involved and a new menu system to get to grips with. There are a couple of things I am struggling with though with the Pro2. The EVF seems to me to be not quite as accurate as the XT1. Very possibly this is due to me getting lost in te settings, however the actual image I see through the OVF is not an accurate representation of what the image actually looks like after the shot is taken. By this i mean the colour, WB, and any film simulation used are not shown when composing (ie before i press the shutter release). I have tried various settings in the menus including adjusting brightness of the EVF, selecting preview on and off, preview WB/exposure, but no difference. Once the image is taken and the preview is shown, of course it is accurate. I have also tried selecting between RAW and JPEG to see if i am only seeing a RAW image, but no difference.
Is this just a function of the EVF on the Pro2? It was quite different with the XT1 in that it was a more true WYSIWG .
Apart from a little re-learning I am thrilled with the camera. AF and button design alone is a worthy upgrade, but low light focus and improved sensor are noticeable to me already.
Thanks for any tips/advice.
Three weeks ago I was working in Taiwan. On the last weekend I had a day off in Taipei before flying back. Late afternoon I climbed elephant mountain, which is in walking distance to the huge Taipei 101 building. The lookout places were already crowded and full of photographers an hour before sunset, not a tiny empty space for me could be found. Then I saw a tiny path through the bushes and there was this beautiful little hidden place with this beautiful view. Only one photographer there. He spoke no english, I speak neither chinese nor taiwanese. But we had a nice evening, pointing out interesting stuff for each other once in a while and just enjoying the calm time away from the crowd. What a magic evening.
All photos x-pro2, with 14mm, 23mm/2, 35mm/1.4 and 56mm. Handheld, I had no space for a tripod in my luggage.
Taipei Sunset 1 by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Taipei sunset 2 by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Taipei sunset 3 by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Taipei sunset 4 by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Taipei sunset 5 by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Taipei night by magnetisch, auf Flickr
It has been a while since my last post. I have a X100 since 2013 and have been a happy camper with it.
Nevertheless I always missed the portrait range that the lens cannot provide, at least without its quirks.
I have finally decided to get the TCL-X100 for Christmas as I cannot afford another camera for this purpose alone.
I´m also thinking about an external flash, especially for inside shots - bouncing capability.
I know that are good options like the Nissin I40, the EF-X20 or even the bigger EF-42, but honestly those are a bit expensive for my wallet right now, especially considering I´m already getting the TCL.
TTL is importante for me. So as a cheapest option I can only find 2 that could sort of suit my needs. The EF-20 or the Meike MK-320 (there is also the Neewer NW320 that I think is the same).
What do you guys think? I know they are not as powerfull as the expensier options but will they be enough for bouncing purposes, let´s say at home?
Thank you and cheers.
I have an X-T1 and an X-T2. I would like to trade in my X-T1 for another X-T2 but first, need to find the answer to why I can't trigger the X-T2 remotely with my Pocket Wizard, something I need to do often.
With the X-T1 I connect the PW receiver with a cable to the 2.5 mm mic in socket, and trigger the camera to focus and shoot with the PW transmitter. With the X-T2 that same setup does not work. The camera has a slight reaction, which shows that the signal from the receiver is being received, but the green focussing square remains white. It will not focus and shoot. I tried changing lenses but that made no difference. Changes in ISO, shutter speed or f stop also made no difference.
I can use the mic socket in the X-T2 to focus and shoot with a Godox or Yaguno cable release, so it is not a hardware problem. I hope it is some setting issue that someone on this forum can identify.
I have tried to duplicate the settings in the X-T1 as much as possible in the X-T2, but to no avail. Can someone here help me?
I will be visiting Iceland for the holidays and was wondering if anyone has used the Xpro2 together with the 10-24mm lens to take photographs of the aurora borealis? I'm not quite sure if f 4.0 is enough for them.
Tonight (12/3) is the annual Jack Frost festival at Whitegrass Ski Tour Center in West Virginia. If you are in the area, this is the place to be for genuine West Virginia hospitality. Whitegrass is also regarded by many to be the best place on the east coast USA for free-heel and telemark skiing.
Four years ago I attended and had my trusty X-Pro1 in my pocket. I roamed around and tried to take some low-light still images, and see how it did for video. The video quality is pretty poor, and I had to do some extensive audio EQ to compensate for the poor microphone on the camera. Despite all this, the clip gives you a feel for Appalachian mountain music and skier comradery.
Here's the LINK.
Hope you enjoy, and get out and enjoy winter!
Was asked by the owner to take a few shots of people coming to view a garden sculpture opening.
I really have no idea what that meant. Maybe those who do street photography or art photography know. I don't do either really.
But I love my X-T2 and my 23mm 1.4, so this is a sample. Since it was voluntary and unpaid the pressure was off! I have a lot of respect for paid photographers.
Anyone spotted the answer to this? The specification in the Fuji UK site is not specific.
This is a stand of massive poplars I came across while doing some fly fishing shots on the Narial Creek in Northeast Victoria.
I did a couple shots and then realised they didn't have much scale so I asked Jim to sit in amongst them.
16 1.4 / 60th / @f8 / 200ISO
I often carry at least one film camera and one digital camera at the same time, and sometimes come home with shots of the same subject made with two or more different cameras and capture systems. This thread is intended to encourage people to post pairs of photos of the same subject made with different cameras, or different media, or different lenses, or different films, or different anything or everything. If you only own one camera, you might want to post images that were made with different lenses, different focal lengths, or were processed differently (perhaps monochrome contrasted to color). I don't care if the two photos were photographed on the same day, from exactly the same vantage point, or even by the same person. The point is simply to post interesting comparisons contrasting different approaches to the same subject.
These two were taken with two different cameras from slightly different vantage points.
This shot was made with a Fuji X-Pro1 and the 18-55 zoom at 18.8mm. ISO was 1600, F/18 and 1/250th second (to freeze the motion in the grass). The black and white processing was done from a RAW file in LR.
This shot was made with a Cosina-Voigtlander Bessa R rangefinder camera with a Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 lens and Kodak Portra 400 film. I scanned the film with a PrimeFilmXE film scanner and inverted it myself, processing it in both Photoshop and Lightroom. The settings were similar to the settings above, with a reasonably fast shutter and a smallish f-stop, maybe f/8 or f/11 because of the lower ISO.
Because I walked up the hill a bit before shooting the second shot it encompasses an even wider field of view than the first shot, even though the lens used had a longer focal length, even after adjusting for the different-sized sensors. The X-Pro1 shot was at 27mm "equivalent" compared to the Bessa shot at 35mm. This is a good example of what it means to "zoom with your feet".
About a month ago I sent my XPro1 to Fuji repair in NJ because the camera would not read my lens (35mm f1.4). It would display fstop "0" on the screen and in the viewfinder. No matter what I tried, the lens would not work with the camera. The lens worked fine on my XT1 and XE1.
The camera was still under warranty. Turns out the main board was bad. The repair ticket said, "Main Unit replaced" and "Main Board replaced."
FYI for folks experiencing this issue.
I spent the day shooting in Seattle with the X-Pro 1 and OM 24/2.8. I've been going back and forth whether or not I like the Olympus and today pretty much convinced me...it's not the lens for me.
broken saucer by kevin dixey, on Flickr
The images are nice. It's plenty sharp, well built and you certainly can't complain about the small size but when it comes right down to it I just prefer images from my other lenses a whole lot more. I really thought it would be the perfect match for the X-Pro 1 but my Nikon 28/2 AiS is a lot more fun to shoot (and a lot bigger as well), the the CRC makes it super flexible and the images are much more to my liking. It was a fun experiment and you never know what you like until you try it.
Time to give somebody a great deal on it.
Thought a few of you may find this interesting. I was a large format photographer for many years and have just started to photograph some of my older work with my Fuji Xe-2 and my 60mm lens. I used a simple 2 light set up bounced of a white background for lighting. The 4x5's were taped to a sheet of glass with the white paper behind them. I set the camera up to fill the frame with the negative.
Maybe a weird question...
Anywhere I can still get a new XPro1 in the US?
This thread is just me sharing my setup and experience when shooting events, using the X-T2 as main camera and camcorder(s) for B-rolls. I welcome any comments, and I realise that your setup will be different. What I aim for is to give some examples of how I work in case it helps new users to video...
I am actually starting this, WHILE I am on a job, so posts will be sporadic.
I am about to buy a new lense but am stuck deciding between the 16mm 1.4 or the 23mm 1.4..
I have the 56mm, 24mm 1.4 and the 14mm, to be honest i use the 14mm more than the others, about 90% of the time, as i mainly do landscape or seascapes, i do like the 14mm, yet from what i have read the 16mm is a great lense, and the extra stops of light would be great!
I like the idea that the 23mm 1.4 would fill a gap, however the 35mm is probably used the least.
So i have some amazon vouchers to use, there is one 16mm 1.4 left that i could buy bt plenty of 23mm 1.4's
Do i get the the 16mm now? I can purchase the 23 later.
I feel that the 16 is better for my type of photography, though i do have the 14 mm which i love!
Or will the 23mm open up more options?
With "evening" coming at @3:30pm these days, I stumbled upon a rare and beautiful "Salmon Hour" yesterday. Salmon being the reddish/pinkish/purpleish hue the the light took on with thick cloud cover and a fast approaching "Blue Hour".
All A7ii and either Contax 80-200 f/4 C/Y MM, or Contax 28mm f/2.8 C/Y MM. I'm really enjoying the 80-200, and generally keep it pinned at 200mm for capturing those beautiful Manhattan skyscrapers. Photos are incredibly sharp - at 100% I can see tiny details in the top of the WTC spire cap!
"Technicolor" Freedom Tower (200mm f/4)
Jane's Carousel in Brooklyn Bridge Park (28mm f/2.8 1/5sec.)
Jane's Carousel II (28 f/2.8 .6sec)
70 Pine St. "City Services" Building (200mm f/4)
Staten Island Ferry and Lady Liberty (200mm f/4)
i find it odd that fuji has no long primes. it does have some zooms that cover the longer focal lengths...i bought the 55-200 so i'd have the 200 covered but i'd prefer a faster prime lens to be honest.
have i missed any chatter about this? i checked the lens road map and there seems to be something there (but i'm blanking at the moment)...
A local guy has a very clean X100 for a great price. He tells me it's been perfect. It's an early one with a 12A... serial number, among those that had the sticky aperture blade problem. Should I worry? It's 4 years old and is said to have never had an issue? Is it an issue waiting to happen, or is it likely that it just won't happen on this one? Please advise.
I don’t have any experience in flash photography but recently had an assignment that required that I use the EF-X8 flash with my X-T1. I use the camera on Manual Mode only and could not quite figure the best flash settings for Manual Mode. The first and biggest problem was that I could not see the subject in the viewfinder because of the low light of the scene, I finally found that by setting the shutter speed dial to “A” I could now see the scene and set my focus correctly.
QUESTION: Is the “A” setting a good setting for flash photography when the X-T1 is in full Manual Mode ?