Just to pass a little information on for members.
I received a SanDisk Extreme Pro, SDXC, UHS-1 card for my Nikon D800. This is the 95 MB/s, 128 Gb U3/ 10 version. Files are large on the D800 and I am shooting more video on vacations, I thought I'd go larger. I also popped it into my Fuji X100T to see if it worked.
Unfortunately, the card gave the error "Card not initialized".
No amount of formatting in the camera, cleaning contacts etc will make it work.
Pop it into the D800 and there is no problem.
It seems that card size has something to do with this error. My 64 Gb U1/10 version works fine.
Interestingly, the Fuji site states that the UHS-1 card should work up to 128 Gb.
Has anybody else tried this larger card? I wonder if it's something to do with the U3 designation?
Wow! The latest firmware upgrade (3.70) finally makes the OVF suitable for close focus.
Not only does it show the real AF point, instead of the 80cm "minimum" point in the previous firmwares. But the adjusted frame lines are a lot more precise as well.
Of course the EVF is still best for very precise framing, but this is pretty good (about 50cm focus distance).
I'm impressed that Fujifilm did not completely forget the X-Pro1 yet
How many lenses is too many? (And why isn't it ARE too many?)
If you were to buy every prime length that Fuji offers, you'd have (the equivalent of) 21, 24, 27, 35, 40, 50, 75, 84, 90, ... Starts to get pretty crowded in the middle there. How do you make your choices?
I ask in part because I currently own a single lens, the 27mm. And I like the idea of the WR versions of their 23mm and 35mm, but they seem awfully close in scope to the 27mm.
And yeah, I know it "depends on what you need". Let's just stipulate that one
I have noticed on my Xpro1/Xt-10 and strangely to a lesser degree on my budget X-M1 that when I select "Image Display after shooting - Continuous" the camera freezes for more than a few seconds and it can stay locked up for well past 10sec, it'll show the pic that's just been taken but will show the Red LED light and won't respond to any button presses including the shutter. I find that happening whether shooting Jpeg or RAW or both.
The weird part is if you select Image Display after Shooting 1.5 or 3 sec then there is no lag or freeze, you can even press the shutter to return to normal operation instantaneously and then immediately press the Play button and zoom into the image.
When using "Image Display after shooting - Continuous" you can zoom immediately into the image, I thought that perhaps rendering the full jpeg preview may be where the hold up is but that doesn't make sense - by the time you have zoomed in to an image and then pressed the shutter to return to shooting mode the buffer should be cleared. I have tested this with all my SD cards including 300X to 600X cards and the speed of the card appears to make only a marginal difference.
Is this behaviour normal?
I was searching the forums, but I had trouble understanding the answers.
Focus to infinity: manually set the focus point at infinity and everything in the background should be in focus, but not necessarily the foreground?
HFD: everything from half the point chosen will be in focus to infinity, so great for landscape photography and street where you want maximal focus at a given aperture?
1-So my understanding is I use a calculator and plug in certain parameters. the computer gives me a manual focus point that I choose for a given aperture and that is my HFD. Everything half that distance to infinity should be in focus, so if I'm taking street photographs I can just pick up and shoot without adjusting for focus?
thanks, the other posts were helpful getting this far but, I was unable to confirm some of my other questions.
I bought the X-T2 w/ grip bundle for the instant savings last week. I have an X-T1 already with a few Fuji branded batteries. I know Fuji states heat dissipation as a feature of the new battery pack included with the X-T2. I really don't want to spend $130 on two new batteries for the grip when I have a bunch of less than 1 year old W-126 batteries already. Is anyone running the older batteries in the new grip? Any issues that you've run into? I really won't shoot more than a few minutes of 4k video at a time in the near future. If things change, I would probably get the newer batteries to prevent over heating issues.
The only issue I noticed was with the vertical grip installed and the batteries fully charged, I still couldn't select 14fps from the menu. Only 8 and 11 were selectable, 14 was grayed out. Is this because I was using the older batteries?
Really regret I didn't carry a camera so had to use the iPhone... still think this is worth while sharing. All colors have gone; these pics are straight our of iPhone without any tinkering.
It has been freezing here for the last couple of days and most of that time there was a pretty dense fog; the results speak for themselves I think.
Can I shoot with a charger connected to the micro USB port?
I've charged the battery through that port. But I was wondering if I could operate the camera while using the port as a power source.
I have 2 Yongnuo YN-560 III flashes with built in wireless triggers, I was previously using 2 x Canon 580eX Mk I flashes with Yongnuo RF603 wireless triggers which I used to run for weeks it seemed without changing the batteries, the Yongnuo YN-560 III on the other hand doing a similar amount of work seems every 2 or 3 times I use them the batteries need replacing/charging.
I'm using the same batteries as before, I know the Yongnuo YN-560 III has built in wireless triggers but the stand alone RF603 wireless triggers run on 2 x AAA and they last months of use on one charge, so I'm assuming the battery drain of the wireless portion of the flash isn't significant.
I may not be adding everything up which would mean they aren't as battery hungry as I think but I was wondering if anyone else has noticed this with Yongnuo flashes?
I just got an X-T2 as my first digital camera a month ago and have been very happy about it. But when I grabbed it for a walk just now, I found out that I couldn't press the shutter... not like I can press the shutter but it doesn't take pictures, but like I can't press it. Seems like the button is stuck and staying down? (i don't know though). I was wondering if X-T2 has some sort of shutter release lock or stuff? I did read the manual but didn't find any clue.
Thank you very much!!
I thought a bit of introduction is in order here.
I am from Chicago and new owner of Fuji X-T2 along with 18-55 Kit , XF23 f2 and XF16 f1.4.
Years back when I used to live in India, I used to love Photography. Those were the film days. I still remember saving up to buy and process film.
Along the way life happened and photography took a back seat in life.
A few months back while sitting at my local bar I bumped into a photographer. He showed me a Sony mirror less camera. I was instantly interested.
After doing my research I opted for Fujifilm.
Going forward I am hoping to keep taking pics as a hobby. I generally like street photography though travel and landscape also interests me.
I have enjoyed visiting the forum here and hopefully I will contribute in future.
What is the difference or advantage of a tilted lens hood. I want to change to a vented hood for my Fuji 35 F1.4 and not sure to get a tilted or not.
X-T2 & 35/2
ON1 has launched an update of ON1 Photo Raw
I posted this elsewhere so excuse me if you've seen it, but it's my fond farewell to the X-Pro1.
Back in November 2015, on Black Friday, I bought a brand new X-Pro1 with the XF 27 and 18mm lenses for £499. I worked out at the time that if I had flipped the lenses straight onto eBay, the body itself would have cost me £150 - so a pretty good bargain. And that's without counting the official leather case they also chucked in for free.
Since then I've had a fantastic year and a bit with this as my main camera, and loved it. All the nice things people say about the X-Pro1 are true, and I've bored people with them here myself. The jpegs really are stunning and superior to the X-Trans II versions. The look and feel, ergonomics, and all the advantages of the optical finder - being able to see clearly and uninterrupted, around the frame, in all conditions - it's just brilliant. It's often said the X-Pro1 has soul, and I certainly felt that.
But all good things come to an end. As improved as the performance of the XP1 is after all the firmware updates, much of the bad stuff people say about the camera also still has a ring of truth. It can feel very lethargic at times. The AF can and does let me down. I have two small children and while it's been a creative challenge at times chasing them around with an X-Pro1, with some great results, I've come to the point where I think I've gone as far as I can. After 24k images I'm ready to move on.
Unfortunately my budget was never going to stretch to a camera with a 2 in the name, so I'm back in X-TransII world with a refurbished XT1 on the way. I figure I can make the jpegs work, and if it's got to be EVF it might as well be a good one.
And the final parting gift from my £150 X-Pro1? The fact that, after a year's use and the intervening release of the XP2, it still raised more than £300 on eBay. I hope it's going to a good home.
XT1 +Fujinon 50-140 mm + dupli 1,4x - f8, 1/30 seg, ISO200
La guarida por -Osmel gg-
Purchased a Metabones Nikon G to Fuji X Speedbooster Ultra. Attached to a Fuji X-T1. attached a Nikkor 85mm f/1.4 to the adaptor. Turned the camera on. Tried to take a photo. Nothing, shutter would not fire. Any advice? I possibly could be doing something wrong, as the Metabones comes with zero instruction. I did set the adaptor to the F7 position as I had read.
Thank you in advance.
I realize this question has already been asked but going through last year's thread I still can't get an answer as to whether there is a lens profile available for Lightroom for the Samyang 12 mm, f/2. If not how would I go about creating one? Last year's thread had some url connections which are no longer functioning. Anyway can anyone help a fairly computer illiterate to create or find such a profile?
Update: approximate prices in US dollars (thanks Anthony):
Japanese pricing of upcoming Fuji cameras and lenses (GFX 50S, X100F, X-T20), GFX accessories | Photo Rumors
- GFX 50S: $6,995
- GF 63mm f/2.8 R WR: $1,687
- GF 32 - 64mm f/4 R LM WR: $2,532
- GF 120mm f/4 R LM OIS WR Macro: $2,955
- H mount adapter: $700
- VG - GFX 1 (battery grip): $600
- EVF-TL1 (EVF tilt adapter): $606
- NP-T 125 (battery): $131
- BC-T 125 (battery charger): $86
- AC-15V (AC adapter): $108
- X100F: $1,358
- WCL-X 100 II (wide conversion lens): $282
- TCL-X100II (Teleconversion lens): $282
- X-T20 Body: $982
- X-T20 XF 18-55 mm lens kit: $1,311
- XF 50mm f/2 R WR: $465
Capture One 10.o1 has just been release. Nothing I can see is specific to Fuji, but bug fixes for both Mac & Win
I took all of these with the X70 in dull rainy conditions -it doesn't do justice to Glossop at all....but the best I could make in the conditions.
_DSF8162.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
_DSF8173.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
_DSF8175.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
_DSF8176.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
_DSF8167.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
I'm thinking of switch to the Fuji system, specifically the X-pro2 from a micro 4/3rds system. Reasons are bigger sensor / fast 1.4 lenses for DOF control and more interestingly to me, the hybrid VF. I really miss the optical VF from my pre-mirror less days.
My biggest concern however is the AF speed and accuracy I've heard about the Fuji system. How would the x-pro2 with an older lens like the 35 1.4 fair in low light in terms of AF? It doesn't have to be blazingly fast for sports or something, but as long as it doesn't hunt back and forth excessively or miss entirely, I think I'd be happy.
Also, I really like the look of the new graphite edition but the price difference on BH is pretty big. Is graphite edition only going to be available in the 23mm kit form and will it not include any of the rebates going on? Also is there a more concrete ship date aside from end of Jan and how often is Fuji on-time? Do you guys anticipate Fuji running out of stock or shipping late?
I think I would pick up a x-pro2, 35mm 1.4, and 14mm for my kit. Ideally would pick up the 33 1.0 that's rumored if it ever comes to fruition.
I've just received a pre owned XF 18mm through the post, from a reputable source, and hurried to put it on to my X-E1 for the first time.
As I turned the camera on, I saw a flash of light that seemed to come from between the camera body and the lens. It was only momentary but it's the first time I've seen anything like this from putting a lens on the camera. It's only happened the once and the camera and lens are both working fine since it happened. I've checked that the electrical contacts on both are clean and updated the firmware to the latest version on both and everything now seems OK. Coincidentally the battery went flat about six shots later and took a suspiciously short time to recharge. Has anyone had any experience of anything similar?
I just ordered a supposedly good conditioned 50mm 1.4 nFD that I wanted to try on with my X-T2. I understand the standard hood is BS-52 for the 52mm thread, however am not a fan for the flatish shape. I was hoping what 'better' alternatives if off brand hoods out there for this lens. Appreciate your sharing your hood.
I am also wondering in case of using a 52mm circular polarizer, what kind of hood I should use ordering. Thank you very much.
Hey Folks - I'm new to the forum. I've been a casual X shooter for a couple years but since I picked up an XP2, I've been really getting back into shooting. I'm working on streamlining my RAW+JPG workflow to be almost entirely mobile-only where I import jpgs created in-camera to Lightroom Mobile, then use the raw files as backup only, only importing them into Lightroom on my desktop should I really want to go back and tweak an original. (Disclaimer: 95% of my shots are of my kid/family so I'm not usually doing critical processing)
The ability to split the raw and jpgs out onto different cards simplifies this because I have a jpg -only card I can use to import via my iPhone lightning to SD card reader. This is cleaner than the Wi-Fi transfer because the original filenames are preserved making it easier to find the raw backup later.
The one challenge I'm having is that when I've got the SD cards set up this way, any in-camera raw conversion I do will result in the jpg being written to the card with the RAW files. Is there a way to control which card you write to when creating jpgs this way? I'd really love to keep the files totally separate on different cards.
I remember reading a while ago about some guy who had a ridiculously high frame count on his Xe-2. Something like 300,000+ exposures.
Bradley Hanson has something like 150,000+ on his XPro1's. These Fuji shutters seem pretty stout.
Anyone got a lot of clicks on their Xe-2's?
Just for fun, and because I'm curious...
I was looking at this lens today and I was confused on the outer markings. I didn't understand the markings on the apex of the lens, stating 16-4, 4-16 ?
My understanding is that when in manual focus the number in the center is the distance in focus from myself to that point, whether 1ft or 10ft. I have attached an image if that helps specify my point. Haven't had any experience with manual lenses before, sorry for the questions.
Is there any advantage to stitching shots together in Lightroom or PS versus just using the Panorama function built into the X-T 2?