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I'm not sure whether it is a shame or a good thing that Tamron don't make Fuji X compatible lenses.

Link here

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No longer together, such is the lot of most bands. An excellent local group when they were though, and on one occasion they invited me & my XE2 backstage and for the show. Was a lot of fun! Indeego-017.jpg
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I have been doing some readings about speedlights for personal use, and I thought why not share the info and get some feedback including other useful info?

There are many ways to categorize different speedlights. Size is one way (although certainly not perfect and not the only one). First, the smallest ones.
Screen Shot 2017-06-27 at 6.53.51 PM.png
Small speedlights are cheaper and generally have fewer functionality. Fujifilm EF-20 is probably the default choice. Fujifilm EF X20 can be used as an optical slave but lacks vertical swivel and uses AAA batteries instead of AA batteries. Bolt speedlights are cheaper and slightly more powerful. Metz has limited zoom.

Next, medium-sized speedlights.
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IMO, these could be broken into three separate categories. Note that first 3 do not have HSS (high speed sync) and are in similar price range. HSS is used for shallow depth of field or to freeze action. The next 2 (Metz M400 and Nissin i40) have a great deal more functionality (e.g. HSS and video light). Ease of upgrades by the end-user made USB a talking point, but it might not matter in the future if Fujifilm makes no more changes to their flash protocol. Finally, Godox (a.k.a. Flashpoint mini R2 for better USA-based support) is in a different category altogether. Godox is cheapest by far but also has HSS and video light as well as radio trigger. So what does Godox lack? Notable deficiencies are battery power (2 AA instead of 4 AA, which can be a benefit in terms of weight), limited swivel, and longer flash duration at full power (longer flash duration means less effective in freezing action).

Next, I'll lump the following tweeners into medium-large-sized speedlights.
Screen Shot 2017-06-27 at 7.09.45 PM.png
This is also a hodgepodge. All are able to provide marginally more light than the medium-sized ones listed above. Yungnuo is the cheapest speedlight, but it is manual control only and has a pretty long flash duration at full power. EF-X500 is the most powerful Fujifilm branded speedlight with most functionality, but most people here consider it too expensive for what it does.

Finally, the heaviest speedlights.
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Godox / Flashpoint R2 have not been released yet. Li-on batteries store more power but is more expensive. I had to guess some specs for LumoPro LP180, which I actually use. I would guess that very few people would use these on-camera. In terms of flash power, these heavy speedlights are not necessarily more powerful than many listed in the medium-large set.

I'd be happy to make corrections and add more info this OP if other people provide them. In this OP, I opted not to discuss reputation, reliability, build-quality, quality of light, ease of control, ergonomics, and ecosystem or compatibility with other (lighting) accessories, all of which can be more difficult to quantify - but all of these are valid points of discussion. I'm not trying to start "my flash is better than yours" type of argument, although stopping that is beyond my power. Everyone should judge for themselves which features are important and worth paying for. Feel free to chime in with other considerations that may be important in deciding on which flashgun to purchase.
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In spite of having all the latest firmware updates the bright frame in the OVF is very inaccurate for the XF 27mm lens on the X-Pro 1. You end up getting way more image on all sides than is shown in the frame. It is not just a little inaccurate it is nowhere close. Does anyone know how to get around this? I am hoping a future firmware update fixes this!
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Still trying to get that old film look. This one prints rather nicely on semi matt art paper.

try again.jpg
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So back in March I had this thing on my sensor I sent it to Fuji. Purolator lost my camera and so it was never resolved they gave me a new camera which was awesome. Then just recently on my new X-T2 which Fuji provide it to me again the sensor has a mark at the bottom of it again. Same kinda area. I'm thinking now is my lens causing this? This is the 2nd time it's happened. Very weird. I've owned the 56 and 35 from back when the X-T2 came out in Sep of 2016 and with the 56 and 35 never had any issues. No issues. It's only when I got the 14 mm that maybe it happened around that time period. Maybe. I was using the 14 mm alot lately and I always look at the senor for dust when i'm changing lens here and there. I used the 14 mm alot lately the other day and then BANG the sesor had the marks.

Here's my old post for reference. It shows the issue i had back in Mar. The two pics below are from my new camera. What is going on here. I had this similar issue twice now.
Wierd thing on sensor

I have attached my new pics. I'm really upset. Last time I contacted Fuji I had to send my camera and it took 3 weeks because Purolator lost it. I got a new camera

Any thoughts of what is causing this and what should I do I'm going to have to end up contacting Fuji but again I'm extremely upset. Its summer i can't afford to lose my camera by shipping it to fuji again.

I'm going to have to contact fuji AGAIN but not right now. I can't be the only person out there with this issue. It's like a burn mark... I will attach my new pics of the sensor. Lucklly it sits just below and from what i can tell is not affect my pictures.

Again i'm at the point where i'm thinking it's the 14mm. I'm totally guessing on this...



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We've been having quite a dry spell in many parts of the UK and, last week, had our hottest June day for forty years.

Today the weather broke and with the break came some much needed rain for gardeners and growers.

And, a great chance to show off this wonderful old lens...
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Still learning my x-t20 so I'm experimenting. This is a self portrait on a tripod, indoor available light, 14mm, f8, iso400, shutter A (1/3.2), manual prefocus, 10 second timer using Fuji app on iPhone. Shot Raw. Processed in camera with Arcos+R and a few other minor adjustments. Cropped in camera then further on iPhone. Plus the uncropped version for reference. All feedback appreciated.


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Hello everyone.
I'm newbie in photography as I just bought fujifilm X-A10.
I need your help, when the screen is tilting 180 degrees, why my picture isn't mirroring like when I took selfie in smartphone (it's just like using normal mode, but I can see my face when it's tilting). Is there any setup that I should do before usin selfie mode?
Thank you in advance everyone.
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Hi All,

Just curious if anyone is using one of the small format wireless printers like the Instax. If so, what are your impressions and how do you find you use them most? Preferred model/brand?

Many thanks,
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I regularly see questions on the internet on how to take your camera with you while hiking and I’ve certainly researched this topic on the net myself, so I thought it might be nice to share what I’ve tried these last few weeks.

I took two trips, one was a 5 day/110 km hiking trip through the Belgian Ardennes with a backpack containing a tent, sleeping equipment, cooking equipment, food for 5 days etc. Without camera equipment (and water) the bag weighed about 15-16 kg. My aim was to keep my camera gear 'light', but I didn’t want to miss out on any opportunities, so in the end I may have taken a bit too much.
  • Fujifilm XT-2
  • Samyang 12 mm f/2.0
  • Fujifilm 18-55 f/2.8-4.0
  • Tokina FD 70-210
  • Dörr carbon tripod (1.2 kg)
  • Lee big stopper and cable release
As I didn’t want to put any lenses IN the backpack (with the idea that I’d never get them out while hiking and I might as well not take them with me) I bought a Peak Design field pouch, which has two loops on the back, hooked one loop through the hip belt and connected the other end with a carabiner hook to the back of the pack. The field pouch was large enough to contain two of the lenses, while the other was on the camera, allowing for easy lens changes while on the move.

This setup did have one drawback: it was a bit of a hassle to put the field pouch in position while putting the backpack on. This meant that taking the backpack off became a lot less attractive than usual. During walking it worked great however, and changing lenses was fast and easy (in addition, the weight of the lenses isn't on your back, which is nice).

As I said, this may have been a bit too much weight, so for my next trip to the High Coast Trail in Sweden (8 days/140 km) (same bag, contents and weight) I took only my XT-2, 12mm and 18-55, and a gorillapod tripod. In this case I kept one of the two lenses attached to my camera and the other lens in the sidepocket of my Osprey atmos 65 backpack, which allows for easy access to the sidepocket while wearing the pack. This worked surprisingly well!

During the hike I kept the camera and one lens attached to the shoulder strap of the backpack using the Peak Design capture pro clip, which works great. In case of rain I took the Peak Design shell and left the camera in it’s place.

I know not everyone is convinced of the worth of these Peak Design products (and I was myself a bit doubtful about the shell), but this combination worked perfectly. The camera is always within reach, and on rainy days I just put the shell around it to keep it dry (it stayed dry through a day of quite moderate rain). Mind you, during showers I’d not take the camera off and shoot, as the shell is quite unsuited to shooting with it on the camera).

This last setup, one camera and lens on the PD clip, one reserve lens in the side pocket is for me the way to go, and will be what I'll be taking next time! Please let me know if you have any other experience or tips using an X camera while hiking, there's always room for improvement!

Some images from the Sweden trip:




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whats the difference between Electronical and mechanical shutter?
and when should use each one?
and since those overlap in speeds....
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I do have a X100s now a few weeks and i love it .

Never did work with a ND filter , can i use this filter when taking pictures out of my hand , even with high shutter speed , when to use and when not . Going to India in a few weeks lots of sun and Bright /harsh light over there

The same for using Dynamic range settings , when using auto , 100% ,200% or 400%, and what does it do ,and when ?

What are the settings for Sharpening and NR , or just leave it on 0 ?

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Fuji X-E2. Kuribayashi C.C. Petri Orikkor 55mm F2, M42 Mount.

Grabbed this last fall. I haven't put many clicks on it yet, so when the wind died down last night I took it around the yard.

This lens produces some nice soap bubbles, while also having some interesting rendering wide open. In this set I shot wide open, as I like to see what a lens can do wide open, and I tend to enjoy shallow DOF. I did try a small extension tube, and while it works, the DOF is so narrow, you can't really shot it wide open.






Over all, a nice lens that has some fun bokeh, a bit on the wild side, but does nice at mfd. Seems fairly sharp at F2, and this lens is tiny.
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I'm new to the forum and relatively new to photography.
I was shooting with X-A1 for a couple of years with the kit lens 16-50mm and Fujifilm XF 27 mm F2.8 (that I loved), until the camera and Pancake lens got stolen last year.

I was left with just a kit 16-50 mm lens and I bought X-E1 to go with it.

Now, I am not very happy with the overall quality of pictures and I need something else.
I miss the pancake lens, because it was light, small and brighter, but I am wondering if maybe I should get something else (that lens was an addition to the camera when I was buying it at the time, so I didn't choose it).

I mostly use my camera for travels, however I do a lot of landscape and night (sky, aurora) photography, as well as street and people photography.

Therefore I am hesitating between the zoom lens or fixed, small one.
I never had a zoom lens though, so I'm afraid, that it's going to be too big and I will end up not using it at all.

What lens would you recommend to buy?

+I'll also soon have access to the Pentacon auto 1.8/50 multi coating lens, that I'm planning to buy adapter for. But I have no idea how the pictures will end up from it.

Many thanks for your help!
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No doubt this subject has been discussed before but I'd be grateful if you could point me towards discussions / recommendations for setting up the XT1 , ie highlight, shadow,NR etc etc rather than custom functions.
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I have 'image display' set to 'off'. However if I take a picture using the EVF that image is then immediately displayed on the LCD, with a message at the bottom saying 'OK - next'. How do I prevent the camera from doing this?

I love shooting at the myriad of parades that take place in NYC throughout the year, and I spent several hours at the 6/25/17 NYC Pride Parade yesterday in Greenwich Village. There is something so deeply theatrical about these events that allows people to exude various sides of themselves and play to the camera in a way that they might not do otherwise. Virtually every single person that I want to shoot at these parades is both infinitely playful and very generous of time and spirit in allowing me and helping me to get the shot I want, and it's this interplay that I thoroughly love about street photography!

This is a marcher at the parade who, without a single word spoken between us, simply went into full tilt vamp performance mode, and it's my favorite shot of the day!

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With my beloved Konica 57 1.4 acting up I had been strongly considering selling the 50 1.4 to pay for repairs. I decided to give it one last chance to shine for what I had most wanted it for-gig photography. Since I have finally made the move to shooting RAW I thought it might give me a better appreciation of the lens.
And....over two days it delivered. Whether it was taking my time or more understanding the potential pitfalls or the increased DR from RAW I got some shots I was truly pleased with. With a bit of processing in Silkypix and Nik Color Efex, I was definitely impressed. I have to say, this lens renders skin tones better than any other lens I've used with the possible exception of the Jupiter 8.

Natalie Cortez Band at Torch Club. Sacramento, CA
The glowiness really suited this shot and I liked the outline of the tables blurred in the foreground.



Loose Engines at Blue Note Brewery 2nd Anniversary Show Woodland, CA


Garin looking up over his glasses at the camera


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I took a little walk with some friends on the streets of Los Angeles with the X-T10 - 16, 23(2), and 56. It was great catching up and shooting with some new to me gear.

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

[​IMG]FUJI3716.jpg by john matsu, on Flickr

by john matsu, on Flickr

Thanks for looking.
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Had a blast last week in Medellin, Colombia, enjoying a few days off with my wife. I shot a few street photos and here are some. PS processed for a bit more punch. All shot with my X30 in the P mode.
Velvia film simulation
P mode.
-2 highlights.

santa fe 8.jpg

santa fe 7.jpg

santa fe 4.jpg

santa fe 1 small.jpg

santa fe 5.jpg
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Three different looks on the same subject. I used PS to create the matt effect and add the titles. I also adjusted the levels very lightly on the first one and did a very faint almost imperceptible vignette on the B&W. Otherwise they are straight JPG's from the camera.
Velvia simulation.
A mode set at f11.
-1.7 exposure compensation on the last two photos to dramatize the saturated look.

lighthouse 1.jpg

lighthouse 2.jpg

lighthouse 3.jpg
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Hello you lovely people,

Could anyone tell me how to go about achieving the above?
Ideally I would like to use it to control the aperture or if that's not possible to disable it altogether.

At the moment I have a habit of trying to use it for aperture control and all I seem to be doing is changing the ISO, white balance, film simulation etc.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

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Spent the day at Classic Showcase in Vista,ca with the SD Jag club. Incredible restoration in process on E types (not this one) and others. Fun with X-T20 and 18-55, but still ,like XP2 best

jag paint-0634.jpg
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It was 105 in Portland.
X-T2, 50-140

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I gave up on ever hearing about an X-E3, so picked up a used X-T2 from Adorama for $1350 in excellent condition. I was surprised to see used T2s in good shape cycling through the used departments At BH, Adorama, and wonder if anyone has an inkling of an idea as to why? Just curious....nothing is perfect and the T2 might not be everyone's apple. Just seems strange to me, as I've been shifting to Fuji for a couple years now.

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So I'm going on a trip and will take my X100S with me, today I was testing importing raw files from a memory card to my phone and all the raw files import as 1920x1280 and without any exif data but all the jpg files I tested with came out as normal... Is there something that causes this in my phone (OnePlus 3) or is there something else could be done? Thanks in advance
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X-T2 16-55. Cranked up the ISO and shot at 2.8

I was on the wrong side of the plane so wandered to the forward galley to get these pics. :)



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Anyone shooting both? Just got the X-T20. Loving it but can see the usefulness of some of the features on the X-T2 - Weather sealing and slightly larger body when dealing with larger lenses. X-T20 size is great for walk around. Thinking of ditching my Canon gear entirely so will probably add some lenses like the 100-400. Any thoughts?
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A few light sprinkles of rain did not bother us as we walked in a little-used park just outside of town.




All from X-E2 with kit 18-55mm; probably used the closeup ring on the sweet peas.
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I've only had the GFX a few days and I love it, but today I was doing a portrait session. The guy had a blue patterned shirt on. The moiré was unbelievably horrible and the images took hours to correct. I shot with the X-T2 side by side, no moiré.

1) Are any of the rest of you having problems with moireé/aberrations?
2) Is this inherent in the GFX/MF systems?
3) Any way to avoid it?

This camera is cheaper than other MF's but still too expensive these images to have issues like this, very disappointing. I don't want to bring it back, but I didn't expect this.

I've read comparisons of this online, other cameras have the issue, but the GFX seems quite pronounced.

Sample image attached.

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Heavily visited and photographed location, but I had a couple hours extra while traveling in Portland for business recently. Had the Fuji X-T2 and 23/2 WR with me. Was raining fairly hard but the viewing area was still packed. The trail to the bridge was also very busy. Grabbed this with the assist of my stairway steady mount since I had no tripod. Very quick Fuji RAF to JPG conversion using Provia profile. Super light touch on shadows, +3 on vibrance in Lightroom, sharpen and output.
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Im looking for a cheap, affordable wideangle lens without sacrificing quality. I currently own the 35mm f2 and 50mm f2. Im willing to use a converter and use other lens outside of Fuji line. Ive heard good things about Samyang 12mm f2, but looking for something even cheaper. Manual focusing is ok.
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I have purchase 1 of the above adapters.
just unable to mount the lens onto the adapter.

line up the dots and turn the lens clockwise, there is a little movement then nothing.
did not wish to force...

any thoughts, all guidance appreciated

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Hi Everyone,

I know about the current deal for the grip but I only want the body. Does anyone have an educated guess on when Fuji will reduce the X-T2 price below the current (US) $1599? Is it still a year away? How long did they wait to drop prices in the X-T1?

I'm trying to convince myself to hold out a little longer.

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