Photos taken in the Antarctic summer with my X-T1 and 18-135, ISO 800, various apertures and shutter speeds. Shortly after we started shooting the snow began, with growing heaviness, yet the camera performed flawlessly. Temperature was around 0 to -5 C.
Extensive whaling operations were carried out between 1906 and 1931 at this location. This decimated the whale population until whaling had to be abandoned because it was no longer profitable.
Abandoned whaling boat.
Men's living quarters. Antarctic architecture was rather basic at the time.
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Hi all! Long time reader and occassional poster here looking for help.
I have the X-T2 combined with the 23mm f1.4 (latest firmware on both), and I've just noticed this very small quirk.
In full manual mode (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) with exposure preview on, moving the aperture between f1.4 and f1.6 results in no change in the live view exposure, even though I can see the meter change by 1/3 a stop, and the final images from each show a difference.
When I move the aperture to A in a way that forces a value of f1.4, I can see that the preview is brighter than when I set it to f1.4, which tells me f1.4 is incorrectly showing me the exposure for f1.6, and not the other way around.
Other 1/3-stop transitions in the entire range properly show a change in the exposure preview, as I would expect.
Has anyone else noticed this? Is this normal? I can't tell whether it's for this particular combo only, since the X-T2 is my only ILC body and the 23mm is my only f1.4 lens.
Thanks in advance!…
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Does anyone focus stack? Which software do you recommend? Any tips for focus stacking?
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I am new to the Fuji system and love the camera so far. I have attempted to use the EF-X8 flash with the camera with no luck. I have tried literally every fix I could find on Google all with no results. I have no flash settings available to me except "M" and "OFF" with the ability to set Front/Rear sync - that is it. The camera seemingly does not recognize the flash. Hoping someone has an idea of something I might have missed because this is driving me crazy!
I checked Silent Mode/Flash and sound - it is Off
Mechanical Shutter is selected
No bracketing or burst shooting is active - shooting mode is set to S
All other dials are set to the automatic settings (I have also tried specific ISO and Shutter speeds)
The battery indicator shows 3 full bars
The flash has been wiggled, and pushed lightly in every directon to make sure it is fully engaged.
All pins and the hot shoe itself are in excellent condition
Latest firmware is installed
I have reset shooting settings and setup multiple times (is there another kind of reset?)
Anything else I'm missing? Sorry for the long post I'm hoping someone can help!
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So here's my dilemma. I love my 18 and 35 f2 lenses but there are times where I wish I had longer lens. This is where the 50, 60 and 80 comes in.
I don't know where to begin to choose one over the other. By default I would go with the 50 but then I don't know if there's much of a difference between 35 and 50.
The 60 and 80 are also tempting because I would like to play around with macro too. Portraits would be nice as well. I'm also aware they're f2.8.
The pictures I've taken are usually urban/city so I have my 18 and 35 for those.
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Hello new to the forum and after two posts am very thankful for all the advice and the time taken by members to dispense it.
I mainly take landscapes with the occasional foray into the city and use the camera for family snaps.
I used to shoot 35mm on rangefinders at school but lost it for a bit to return do digital. After a couple of Pentax DSLRs (kx, K5) I bought a X30 (great little camera) as a second camera and just yesterday went all in and bought a X-E3 with the 23mm f2 lens and now start the journey of prime buying!!
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Mardi Culturel TD x Danse Danse — La Tresse Collective
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So I've been playing around with the X 100f with auto SS, f, and ISO on A. When I do this P appears on my live view screen, hence I naively believe the camera is now in P mode. When I use the back dial to much about with exposure values, I notice the SS varies, the ISO varies, but the f remains the same. For me this isn't necessarily a bad thing, often in night street photography I want the f stop to stay wide open.
But if what I describe is accurate, isn't the camera sort of acting in aperture preferred mode?
I'm editing this in, I read Arjay's response to similiar question in 2013 and one of the criteria for a frozen f2 is that DR is set to auto, checked and mine is set to 1oo. Should DR be set to auto under general use?…
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Just a simple candid street style snap taken at Canterbury Kent UK of a guy busy making a Roll Up cigarette. It's the look of concentration that appealed to me.
X-T2, 55-200mm Lens 1/70th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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Anyone purchased a GGS-Fifth-Generation-for-FUJIFILM-x-t1-x-t2-x-a3-LARMOR-screen
I need one for x-E2.
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Quite a deal!
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On my xt1 I'm sure that all the focus points were the same colour, what i have now is the nine points in middle are white and all the rest are grey. How do i get the middle ones grey. Any help would be much appreciated…
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I'm currently in the midst of considering changing system from a Nikon D40 on which i basically only use the 35mm 1.8 lens. Shooting a range of different styles but mostly landscape, architecture and urban.
At first i was considering going for the Nikon D7500 (£835 body) as that would be the most logical progression and i would be able to use the same lenses (my brother also shoots Nikon). But after peeking into the world of mirrorless I was quite captivated of the small maneuverable builds and yea there is just something about them?
The Fuji lineup looks great, which is obviously why I'm here. I'm primarily looking at the X-T20 and the X-E3 and I'm not quite sure which route to go, especially the lenses confuse me as the available kits with different lenses have all kinds of different price points and on top of that I'm not from the US so the prices seems slightly different in that regard as well. So i tried to get an overview of it all an made this quick table in excel which you can see here:
In addition to considering getting one of the kit lenses i was also considering getting just the body and then buy a specific lens on the side. Something equivalent to the Nikkor 35mm 1.8 for example. So i made a list of the most common(?) lenses and their price points as well, at least from what i know.
So this turned into a slightly longer than anticipated paragraph but in essence, i would love some feedback on both the actual body and which lens to pair with it, in terms of quality but also value for money (hence why i posted the prices). Any suggestions are more than welcome!
Thank you very much for your time and i appreciate the feedback!…
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I'm new here (obviously) and I'm currently in the midst of considering changing system to a Fuji. So i have a tons of questions regarding it, but that's for a different post.
I'm still studying and just enjoy shooting on a hobby level. I like everything from landscapes to cityscape/architectural but also urban/street.
So yea, just wanna say thanks…
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Sorry to disappoint...these "Dolphins" are not the frolicking ocean mammals perhaps suggested by the title but the old wooden structures still remaining from the vast area of coal-loading dock infrastructure in Cardiff in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Historical relics they may be, but sun and clouds conspired to offer them a fresh visual prominence against new developments, which are, quite literally, put in the shade for once. Thought I'd see how they'd come out with b/w treatment and I'm pleasantly surprised by the mood conveyed by the aerial perspective which I usually associate with shots of receding mountain views.
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Quick shot of flower with X-T2 and 56mm f/1.2 at f/8 with 11mm extension tube, Godox TT350 F flash-
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I used the camera remote app early this morning and I am unable to remove it from my in-tray on the phone (Galaxy Note 5). This always happens - I usually resort to restarting my phone, but there must be an easier way.
As far as I know it's the latest version of the app and I have tried and tried to close it, but it won't go away (so it's probably eating battery) and I have changed the stand-by time to 10 mins, but 5 hours later it's still running.
How can I make it stop, please?
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So, I have experienced this problem with my X100S not the first time, that the picture taken is different to what's seen in the viewfinder/LCD in darker inner conditions.
But what was particularly unnerving now, that some of the shots actually turned out to be as seen on the LCD.
Here's a sample:
This is the shot preview I see on the LCD when I focus:
But this is the shot that gets taken 20 out of 30 times:
However, 10 out of 30 times I get the correct shot:
So 20 out of 30 times there is some issue with the in-camera auto white balance.
I did the same test with an X-T1 and with an X100, and neither of them has exhibited this problem, the shots I got were all good…
All you people and your long heavy and cumbersome super zoom lenses don't know what you are missing.
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Does anyone know or use software similar to X-Aquire that will run on an Apple iPad?…
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Hi, I am not new to this forum however I was on a hiatus with the fuji system. I had came over from Pentax system awhile ago, but went back to the DSLR side. After some shoulder issues from work, I have really been able to lug around heavier gear and heavier lenses so I have come back to fuji and the mirrorless system. I now have an XT-1 and with the price being lowered to 599 I could not pass up the deal. I was able to also get the following lenses, the 18-55mm 2.8-4.0. 23mm f/2.0 and the XC 50-230mm. I have been happy to get back to the fuji system, I really enjoy the photos that come out of the fuji cameras. I will be posting some images of some recent shots!…
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In Sydney Harbour at the dangerous depth of 150 feet lay the wreck of a small tugboat. Some 32 years ago I did a scuba dive into the tug's interior, through the small square hole in the deck. The hole was just big enough for me to squeeze through with twin tanks on my back. Getting stuck in the hole was not an option!
Once inside the wreck, there was no way out other than that same small hole. The hull's interior was deep, dark and cold. Not a place for the claustrophobic. I lay on my back on the bottom of the hull to photograph another diver looking down at me through this same small hole. Then I carefully slid out of the hole and slowly rose towards the surface to perform about 20 minutes of decompression at the 10 foot depth.
These Ektachrome slides were recently photographed with my X-T2 and 18-55 + MCEX 16 mm extension tube. The slides were taken with a Nikonos and an underwater flash.
The view from above the hole in the deck.
The view from inside the hull. The white particles are caused by my flash bouncing off white sand particles floating in the water.
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I was in two minds about taking any camera along to a busy half-term location but decided I might miss out if the overcast cleared, Opted for the tiny X70 without any tripod to attract less attention. The clouds half-cleared and lighting turned out to be nicely varied both against and with the sun:
Relics from the days of Coal X70 18.5mm 1/420 f/11 ISO-200
Pier Head Building, Millennium Centre and National Assembly X70 18.5mm 1/85 f/11 ISO-200
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Hi. I recently bought a X-E3 with the 23mm lens. I’ve downsized from a Pentax DSLR to make a more rucksack/coat pocket friendly set up on the hill and down dale. Next I need a wide angle prime and my quandary is I can afford either a sh Fuji Please login or register to view links which I worry might be a bit narrow and not far off the 23mm but intrigued by its size or a Samyang 12mm which only worry is it’s not Fuji therefore will not correct in camera. Am I better of saving a couple of ton more for the XF14?? The 16mm is out of sight!!…
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So a short history of me and cameras. My first camera was a Konica T3, built like a tank with mechanical innards, even if the battery died you could still shoot photos. Shortly after I purchased it in the Spring of 1974, I read the instructions, plunked in a roll of film, went out to Beacon Hill park and filled the 36 roll. When I proceeded to wind in the film, it seemed the film was stuck, wouldn't wind up, so after a great deal of effort I did rewind the film. When I opened the camera back, I discovered I had torn the film apart, exposing what was visible, and had successfully ruined a roll of film. Of course I became instantly paranoid I had damaged the camera in some profound way. God bless Konica, the camera was shutter priority, I set the ISO on the dial, set the f stop on the lens (sound familiar), and while using the internal meter, the proper shutter speed was determined. This was the camera the clerk handed me after I requested something any idiot could use, he got that part right. So I read the instructions again on how to re-wind, I hadn't pressed the button on the bottom of the camera to release the film spool so it would rewind. And if you believe in miracles, no damage was done to the camera for my stupidity.
The above story I have offered you is my way of saying, I've made so many blunders when exposing, the vast majority of time, crappy photos due to focus error (the above Konica T3 had only manual focus lenses, as did all cameras of all brands back in the horse and buggy days). Crappy photos demonstrating the reciprocal rule of shutter speed does apply. Background blur when I wanted sharpness as I set the f stop at a wide setting.
When I have taught newbies in photography, I told them - now you think with this new whiz bang camera that you have complete control over, you are going to produce great photos, just hold that thought! I explained photography is much like learning how to drive a standard transmission vehicle. If you are one in a million, you will drive away the first time and subsequent times, smoothly with no jerkiness. But if you are like the rest of us, the car will jerk all over at first. Well photography is like that, you will initially take better photos with a Point and Shoot (back in the old days) set on auto, kind of like the automatic transmission. But over time after making a thousand mistakes you will have a better understanding of how cameras, lens, and exposure calculations work, and you will produce better photos. If you want to stand around the photographer's water cooler and have credentials, you have to know how to use a camera with shutter priority, aperture priority, properly set ISO, program shift, EC and FC.
Fast forward to yesterday, shooting my very first "street" photo in a restaurant - great lighting - with my new X 100f. Auto ISO is on, auto SS is on, and I have set the f to f5.6. Dumb, dumb, dumb. So I take a photo I fall in love with but looking at the data on the back of the camera, the SS results in 1/20th of a second. And after taking so many bad photos, I know I've done it again. Inside with no flash, f5.6 is too slow, I know this... I really do. But blunder, I do.
Now I've been raised in the "manual" everything school of hard knocks and shooting auto anything is against my nature. And how am I going to have credentials around the photographer's cooler? So I got to thinking, what if I say - just screw it - what if I had taken that photo with auto everything on, I bet the camera software would have chosen a faster shutter speed to at least 1/focal plus crop and I would have had a better image.
So if I go to auto everything, can I still stand with other photographers around the water cooler and talk about the one that got away?…
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Sorry if I sound to be on another planet, but what are they? I've 'wandered' round, but could see nothing informative…
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. It's been eons since I posted here Here is one from a shoot the other day part of a series on how gentrification and skyrocketing costs have affected lives, This is a longtime Kensington market denizen (over 30 years) musician and runs the operations for the local moving company. he has lost his long-term 2 bedroom apartment so they can renovate and turn it into an Air BnB . He has ended on a room in the attic of a very old Chinese rooming house (or as he calls it Hovel ) because there was nothing else available in the core near all his work and assorted gigs that was affordable ...average rent for a 1br in this area is now $2300 per month, small (less than 300sqft) bachelors 1500-1700. there are now numerous whole families homeless in the city who just can't find a place they can afford.Many are leaving for other close by cities but if your work is in the city the cost of a reliable vehicle gas insurance etc kills any saving, and nearby cities don't have as many jobs (or if you are a musician places to play)
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Here are the external changes what I would like to see on X-PRO3
1) Invert the viewfinder selector lever (similar to X100) with only 2 positions: OVF/EVF
2) The Fn2 button (positioned in the viewfinder selector lever) should be assignable to pop up/down the electronic rangefinder display (ERF) as the lever has now only 2 positions.
3) Replace the Metering button (on the back) with a 2 or 3 position rotating switch (for SPOT, MULTI eventual CENTER WEIGHTED metering) with an inside positioned push button assignable for AE-L. (hint Sony a7II)
4) Please remove the AF-L & Q buttons from the thumb rest and leave it clean…