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Seen on the road during my pre dawn donut run aboard my motorcycle.
Fuji X100s, ISO400, 1/34ss, aperture priority, f2.8 on camera flash.
Sign of the Times 002.jpg
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X-T2 and XF55-200mm on a short and cold hike at a local Metropark looking up at iridescent clouds through bare trees.
Thanks for looking,
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Hi I've had this problem for a while now, my fuji x 100's eye sensor will only work very occasionally... Like I'll have it in eye sensor mode and I will raise my eye to the viewfinder but it basically doesn't register as if the sensor itself if broken. Has anyone else had this issue and resolved it? I might have to contact fujifilm or take it to a camera shop or what not. Thanks…
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I was aware of the Geminid meteor shower last night, but due to multiple reasons, I didn't catch any with the camera. When I arrived to my location, I saw about 4 big ones when, but as I got setup and started shooting, they stopped almost entirely. Oh well, I did get a snap of a shot of Orion, one of my favourite constellations.
Oh yeah, it was -24c while I was out and the X-T2 with the 16-55 f/2.8 handled the cold like a pro! The LCD didn't slow down, the batteries held a charge surprisingly well and no other funky issues to report.
Image EXIF:
X-T2 body
ISO 5000 for the sky shots, x6, median stacking. 10 sec. shutter
ISO 1000 for the foreground, 60 sec shutter.
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I hope it's okay to post this. Some big reductions. I bought my first light stand before the sale :)
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Just a heads up. I received notification of a nice offer this morning from Camera World. They are offering a free battery grip with every purchase of an X-T2, between 14th and 21st December. For those unfamiliar with them, they have shops in London, Chelmsford and Stevenage, as well as an online store. This offer has small print of "redeem in store", so I wasn't sure if that meant the brick and mortar shops only, however the offer does appear on the online store too. Always best to check the T&Cs though!
They are also offering the £95 Fuji cashback and £100 trade in on this, so its a pretty nice deal if you're in the market! :)
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I do a lot of product photography. I use Fuji XE-2 with colorchecker classic and Lightroom Classic, but some colors just don't match to real life. Is there any PRO that shoots products with FujiFilm.
Same product with Fuji XE-2 and Nikon D3100. Nikon D3100 has correct colors.
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Hi all, still fairly new to the Fuji-X scene, and have started to build my system up (X-T2 based) with the following lenses - all of which I got second-hand for good prices, having sold all my Nikon FF equipment (D810, D750 and most FF glass). I still have a D500 and a few lenses and also a healthy M4/3 system which I also enjoy shooting with. For info, what I currently have is:
Zooms - 10-24 F4, 18-55 F2.8-4, 18-135 F3.5-5.6, 55-200 F3.5-4.5
Primes - 23mm F1.4, 35mm F1.4 & 56mm F1.2.
My question concerns the "standard" zooms I have. The 18-55 whist a nice tiny little lens (which came with the X-T2) and the 18-135 (which was purchased for holidays etc. as a one lens set-up), are decent enough but haven't blown me away (maybe sample variation). Don't get me wrong, they are better than the "kit" lenses that Nikon offered (before the new superb 16-80 F2.8-4 VR which I have for my D500), and much better built, just not stellar and when I put the primes on the X-T2, I really shows me what the X-Trans sensor is capable of (I know that comparing a "consumer" zoom to a fast prime isn't a fair comparison, but you get the drift.)
I keep looking at pre-owned Fuji 16-55 F2.8 lenses, and wondering if the image quality is really a big enough step up image quality wise from the other glass, or is it all about the additional stop of light at the longer end and the 16mm vs. 18mm ? I like the idea that as per the 18-135mm it's a WR lens (shame the 18-55 isn't), but am a little put off by the fact the other two have IS whereas the 16-55 doesn't. I can't rationally say why this seems important to me as when I was shooting Nikon full frame, my 24-70 F2.8 wasn't stabilized and I did OK with that. Maybe I'm just spoiled with all my current Fuji zooms having IS ?
I have always liked my standard zooms to start around the 24mm (effective) range, as I do use that FL a fair bit, and was sort of hoping that Fuji might update the "18-55" to a "16-55 F2.8-4 IS WR" (looks very unlikely), as for me at least, the F2.8 aperture at the long end isn't the be and end all for me, and a variable aperture design would be fine by me. Just want to make sure I wouldn't;t be buying it for buying's sake.
Thoughts please ?…
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2:15 a.m., can't sleep due to news my cousin passed away. She was a good soul but very assertive, a lifelong music lover and musician. Her beautiful 12-string acoustic guitar was always on a stand in the living room, ready and waiting for that spark of inspiration. While out with my dog for a frigid and windy photo walk today (before getting the sad news) I spotted this discarded "Natural American Spirit" box in a parking lot, with its pipe-smoking Native American logo art, gradually being buried with snow. From her father, cousin had Native American blood in her veins, and she was dedicated to many Native American causes in her life. Uncanny how things work out sometimes. A couple more in the reply. X-E1, XF18-55
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Title pretty much says it. How do I set the aperture on an X-T20 (for aperture priority autoexposure) with a lens that has no aperture ring, such as the 50-230mm?…
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I don't have any Fuji lenses and planned on using my Canon FD film lenses for my [used] XE2. Like my Sony NEX, I planned on just keeping it in "S" or "M" mode so I dictate the ISO and shutter speed via camera and the aperture via the film lenses. This has been maddening because I set the XE2's command dial to change the "S.S"...which works on "T" dial up top. So I can go the full spectrum of 30"-1/4000th. I also have my ISO set to anything I want (not Auto or bracketed). Since there is no method to change the aperture, I can't change that.
My problem is that somewhere, the camera is taking over and overriding MY settings. Shutter I think because I have done the same exact image on a tripod, had ISO 200 with SS@1/200 (let's say) and take a shot. Then I'll take the same shot but with ISO 1600 and SS@1/1000 and I get the SAME image. There is NO possible way this can happen in what is supposed to be full manual. But if I pull up the JPEG and RAW files up, they both tell me the settings I had set.
Now, I did a test with movement and even though I have the "T" setting on the shutter dial and move the shutter to 1/1000th on the command dial at let's say ISO 200, I still get blur like it was at 1/20th SS. So even though the camera EXIF is stating 1/1000th, it's actually shooting at a far slower shutter speed. So either the camera is choosing the shutter for me regardless of the shutter I ASK it to do, or it's changing the ISO from what I ASK it to be at. The camera was at FW 4.0 and updated it to 4.1. I've done two resets and the problem still exists. I do have some control if I put the shutter dial to 1/200 with ISO 200, its a dark photo like I expect it to. But when change it to something that would be way over or under exposed, the camera still decides to kick in some auto function and produce a properly exposed photo. In the end, I cannot make a black photo or white photo via the settings by experimentation.
Thank you in advance…
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Should be approximately equivalent to a 16 mm. Taking advantage of the late afternoon light.
Nikkor 24 f2.8 & Zhonggi LT2.jpg
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I took this photo at Jasper national park in Canada. Originally I processed it in color to recover the cold icy blue of the water. But later I find my self enjoying it in black and white too. Especially since the colors are just not that interesting in the sky and mountains. What do you guys think?
(X-T10 Rokinon 12/2)
Thank you
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... the 6 metre (20') Pythons might. :)
Two cops on patrol at night in north Queensland recently had to wait for this little guy to cross the road in front of them.
Screen Shot 2017-12-14 at 8.35.43 am.png
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Hi guys, forum newbie here. As stated in my intro I´m the happy shooter of an X-T2 with the 18-55 kit lens and it looks like a 55-200 will soon join the fold. I want to get a decent ND filter to shoot some daylight long exposures on running water, rolling clouds and such and recently learned about variable nd filters which seemed like a great alternative to having multiple filters (my current 0.9 nd filter barely does the job), however I have read that variable nd filters might produce unwanted effects like dull colors and low contrast.
So wondering if going with a 9 or 10 stop nd filter might be a safer bet instead.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!
BTW just learned about step up adapters which made my day regarding not having to buy separate filters for lenses…
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X-T2 and XF55-200mm from last month.
Thanks for looking,
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Just a candid street style snap taken at Canterbury Kent UK of a very common sight these days of someone totally engrossed in their cell phone texting.
X-T1, 55-200mm Lens, 1/420th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
Views: 255 / Likes: 13 / Replies: 26
My son and I went for a stroll in the fishing harbour.
He was shooting my Nikon Df and I had my X-T20 with the little 35 f/2
These are tweaked in Topaz for a bit of an HDR feel
[more images in comment thread]
FUJZ4502-IreneMcC TZ.jpg
FUJZ4496-IreneMcC TZ.jpg
FUJZ4522-IreneMcC TZ.jpg
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A bit of poetic licence - it's actually Yen. Taken at Ginkaku-ji temple, Kyoto.
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It's been a long time since I've posted here, probably about two years. I sold all my Fuji gear and went back to Nikon. Well, I'm back to Fuji again! hahaha
I used to have an X-Pro 1 and a X-T1 with the 18 and 35 Fujinon lenses as well as a Rokinon 12mm. This time around I'm using a X-T2 with the Fujinon 16-55 f/2.8 R LM WR. My personal lens roadmap will be the 50-140 next, possibly the 23 and 56 primes and the Rokinon 12mm for ultra-wide/nightscape since I do a lot of night sky photography in the spring and summer months.
This scene is from my walk back from dropping off my child at school. We had our 2nd snow system of the season drop about 10cm+ on us for much of the day yesterday and into the night. I couldn't leave the trusty X-T2 at home!!!
X-T2 w/16-55 f/2.8
ISO 100
1/80th sec.
NiSi V5 Polarizer Pro…
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Captured this earlier this month. Sun, cloud, rain, partial rainbow that disappears into clouds, all playing nicely with the wind turbines. Shot with X-E2 and 55-200 lens. Post-processed in Silkypix Pro 8 and then a bit of a tickle in Affinity to up the drama.
Tankerton Wintery-171201-DSCF3432-a.jpg
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Not the most amazing photos - but they make me proud. My son at his first fencing tournament. XT-2, first with an old Tamron 200mm 3.5, second with the Fuji 35mm f2.
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Took this shot at a show at Jazz Alley in Seattle. Nice venue and they are good with photography as long as you don't use flash. X-T2 90mm if anyone was wondering.
I shared it with the artist. He asked for permission to use the images. We didn't discuss conditons of use per se. He stated if used I would receive attribution for the capture.
My assumption was that it would be for his use - not for any companies that he might be endorsed by.
Honestly I’m more flattered than upset since this is purely a hobby for me. As a part time musician I do plenty of gigs for fun, food or cocktails so it really isn’t about the money.
I wouldn’t mind a big discount on the gear to be honest :D since I don't play flute often and I have a wireless saxophone mic setup already. SD makes a sax mic and the sound is superior to my setup but it is less convenient to use.
I’m not inclined to make a big fuss about but seeking your collective feedback.
Here's the poster. My capture is of Jeff Kashiwa playing the flute.
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When shooting at 1/250, my XPro-2 does not always sync properly. I get a small amount of "black bar" at the bottom. This occurs maybe 20% of the time.
Slowing the shutter to 1/125 takes care of the issue, and I really don't need 1/250, but I'd like the camera to be able to shoot at that speed anyway.
This happens both with on camera and off camera flash, and when using more than one type (brand) of strobe or speedlite and triggers. S0, it's the camera.
Any solutions?
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A bit of Fujiporn with my new trifecta...
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The Ilen was built in 1926 in Baltimore SW Ireland. It spent its life as a trading vessel in the Falkland islands until it was returned to Baltimore for a rebuild. It has been ten years in the 'upper shed', completely rebuilt with just a few of the original timbers remaining. It will exit the shed shortly and spend a few months outside while the engine and other systems are fitted. Here are some photos of the work today.
I found this challenging to photograph, firstly there is a good bit of work pressure so the idiot with the camera isn't much appreciated! The light is brutal and mostly the guys are in constant movement very close to the lens. I was trying to shoot at f4 for some depth of field but the initial photos were mostly blurred. Eventually I used ISO 3000 which has come out grainy, especially with skin tone.
Any advice? (I don't want to use a flash.)
Edit. X100
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...regret getting myself the X Pro 2 for Christmas. I’ve been playing around with the X100F for a few weeks and am really digging it. I got the XP2 to use the lens and get better AF from my XP1. I also thought I’d be too constrained by the single field of view. I’m surprised it hasn’t been an issue yet at all.
im sure I’ll love the XP2 but if I were making the decision today I’d have skipped it and maybe just gotten the 90 and 14 for my XP1…
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According to a new source, the Fujinon XF 8-16mm F2.8 WR will be available mid 2018
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Unlike his Please login or register to view linksthis sugar fueled high energy young man moved about as quickly and was as easy to get seated, remain seated and cooperative as a Quidditch Snitch (Harry Potter reference there). One of the few times in portrait work that I was actually concerned about having a fast enough shutter speed.
Fuji X-T1, ISO 200, 1/480ss, +0.3 exposure compensation, aperture priority, 35mm f1.4 lens at f2.0 under cloudy skies.
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I noticed a dark spot on the upper right corner of the images from my 23mm (only showed when using very small aperture). At first I thought it was something on the sensor, but the sensor looked clean and it didn't show on the images with another lens. (I had a similar experience with the 63mm, but luckily at that time it was a black paint outside the lens so I clean it with a blower.)
Does anybody know any Fuji authorized repair center in Northern California? I couldn't find it on their web site. Is shipping back to their New Jersey repair center the only option?
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Just a simple macro/close up snap taken at Kent UK of the underneath of an Orb Weaver spider.
X-T1, 55-200mm Lens Plus A Full Set Of Ext Tubes, 1/180th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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Salford Quays last night - pretty cold, but wind dropped as the night fell, shame that for the blue hour (well 20 mins at this time of year!) we had movement in the water still.
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X-T2 - XF16mm, single exposure
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Hi guys! I have decided to sell my 23mm f1.4 as I have not been able to bond with it the way I thought I would. It takes lovely photos, but it is too big for my taste. Now I am debating whether to get an x100T or buy a 23mm f2 for my xpro-1. My heart wants an X100T but if a 23mm f2 for my Xpro-1 would give me an advantage when it comes to grabbing focus in dim lighting, I might go with that option instead, since my most loved subjects are my two sons. What do you guys think, which option gives better af speed and accuracy in low light?…
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im curious if anyone could hook me up with image quality comparison photos between those free lens, 18mm, 23mmF2, and the 27mm.
Or any two.
I’m not a fan of pixel peeping, but I would like to know how the images they produce look…
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Taken with the X100F using (Arcos Film Simulation)