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Processed from RAW in Lightroom, Photoshop and Color Efex Pro 4
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Just a simple candid street style snap taken at London UK of some Candy (Sweets) on a street market stall.
X-T1, 18-55mm Lens, 1/120th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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While reading another thread, I came across this exchange between two forum members:
"... there is no contest when it comes to detail. Its not even close"
"Well, yes, that's comparing 24mp to 16mp."
Obviously, I would expect to see more detail if viewing at full resolutionon my computer screen, or if making large prints - but I am wondering if there is any practical difference for those of us who are posting photos on the internet, viewing slideshows on television screens, and making occasional small-to-medium sized prints?
Even if I get a 4k TV someday (not planning on it), the 4896 x 3264 pixel images from my 16MP XE2 should easily fill the screen, and I can't image making prints over 16"x22" -so what benefit would I get from the extra detail, if any?…
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This is an abandoned dock behind an old restaurant in Rochester, New York. Presumably, you were once able to dock your boat here and head in to grab some food. Those days are long gone, but I can imagine that the back patio here was a popular spot to eat.
Fuji X-T20 with 10-24 f/4. Shot at F/8, 159 second exposure, iso 100. Used a reverse ND grad filter to balance the exposure.
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In my neighbour's mountain ash yesterday afternoon. This is one of the first times I've seen one of these birds without its prominent 'bishop's cap' of feathers displayed. (Canon 7DMII + Sigma 150-600mm C)
I recently bought an X100F, which I love. With my old eyes, the large indicator mode is really helpful. However, it seems like when I turn that on, I can't get all three LCD viewing modes while shooting. I get the "standard" view with icons, and the "information" display, but not "information off." I have looked at the manual and the description of the large indicator display says nothing about this. I will mention that when I press the display button from the standard view, nothing changes, and I need to press again to get the information off display. If feels like the click is there for the info off screen, but it doesn't go off.
Oh, and I should mention that all three work with large indicator off…
The 3rd installment of my photographic series "A year in the life" is now online. This time around it's about the making of the video for one of the band's singles (Please login or register to view links), along with same ramblings on the topic of self-promotion:
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Cutting it fine for going on holiday the weekend :) Venice here come....
His and hers .....;)
FUJIFILM X-T3 Owner’s Manual in PDF version
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FUJIFILM X-T3 Owner’s Manual (online)
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X-T3 Camera Body Firmware Update (latest version)
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Anyone else have this issue?
When I import my X100F JPGs into Apple Photos, the time taken gets messed up causing the photos to be out of order. In the EXIF, the correct time taken shows up, but Apple Photos both on macOS, iOS, and iCloud often show a different time. It drives me crazy when photos are out of sequence.
To be clear, this has nothing to do with timezone settings, since they're all taken from the same camera with the same time settings…
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No not me, him.
I don't know Nathan Elson and to the best of my knowledge I have never seen any of his work but I actually found this video very interesting.

One thing Fuji have been good at since the release on the x100 way back then is their use of social media but it seems from what Mr Elson is saying that they now really just want their X Photographers to be Fuji social media mouthpieces and no more.
My take is that I will be extremely skeptical of any review or social media post from a X Photographer from now on…
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I love this piggy bank given to me by my Great Aunt on my mother’s side. Not sure exactly how old he is but my mother remembers him being around for a long time. He kinda freaks little kids out a bit so kinda funny as they are the ones who used to like piggy banks. LOL. He is full of coins from the fifties and early sixties.
Including a silver 50cent piece from 1959 ( the year I was born). That I used for my ball marker golfing.
SOOC with XT20 and the 16 on f1.4.
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Hi folks.
I am sharing these pictures because i also love street photography. I have so little free time to explore as much as i would lime, but at least in holidays i can try. So the snapahots are from Florence. Various people and situations that have crossed my way in one day of city break. And of course, my wife!
Camera used: XT20, 35mm 1.4, 135 mm2.8. Minor tweaks in Lightroom
Well it seems we are a day away from have the first batches of X-T3’s going out on Sep 20th. I personally ordered from B&H as I like to support camera ships vs Amazon types ( plus tax free)
I have no news from B&H but it’s a holiday for them. However I do hear that Amazon has pushed their ship date to Aug 24th. Any one else have updates reguarding pre order…
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I got my X-E2 yesterday and I am so ready to send it back but I have to wait for the shipping label. I have the RMA at the ready and the XF23/2 arrives today. I really do like Fuji cameras. I had an X-10 and X-E1 that I liked a lot, an X-Pro 1 that I loved and an X100 that is super fun to use. So far the X-E2 is not leaving the best impression. I had the same reaction however to the X-E2 however that I had to the a6000 - "it feels like toy, why the hell would I waste my time with this piece of s**t?" That said, I can appreciate how much functionality the camera offers, and no matter how much I prefer the robust build of my NEX 7 it doesn't allow me to use Fuji XF lenses. So I think I need to be talked off the ledge.
The screen flickering under artificial light. I found out all of he lights in m y house are LED so I suppose that's the reason but my X100 and NEX 7 don't do this and truth be told the NEX 7's EVF is also sharper, much larger and easier to use in low light (the X-E2's EVF gets very grainy because it cranks up the gain so much in low light). Is this common with other X-E2's because it sure wasn't the case withy X-E1 or X-Pro 1. I realize it has to do with the refresh rate but this hardly seem like an improvement. Does everyone simply accept this kind of behavior? Is this new since FW 4.0?
I really don't know how anyone can use either. Now, my son looked at it and he actually prefers it to the FP on the Sony so I guess it's a matter of taste. Maybe my aging eyes can't keep up anymore. I shot a few tests and I found it tough to get anything in focus. Split image...does that actually work for anyone? I bought the X-E2 with the idea of using Fuji lenses but I was under the impression that MF had been greatly improved. Suffice it to say that I'm keeping the Sony for adapted lenses. Does anyone use their X-E2 with adapted lenses and if so how do they work for you?
This is a tough one to get past. As I recall BOTH the X-E1 and X-P1 had a very nice build quality. The X-E2 feels waaaaay too light and insubstantial. Does it hold it up or is it like the Olympus E-M5 where dials were constantly falling off. I understand that the X-P1 and NEX 7 were expensive bodes and they both magnesium frames. A camera like the X-E2 is newer, makes more use of plastics to cut the cost so it'll be lighter, but as I recall the X-E1 was also light but still felt substantial. Am I remembering that correctly?
So, if you have an X-E2 what is it that you like about it? What is it that I am totally missing that I should reconsider?…
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Taken today on manual X-T20 + XF18-55mm
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X-T2 +XF90mm f2 wide open which is just how this great lens should be shot.
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We rented a mountain cabin on a lake in Blueridge, GA last week for a family reunion. Beautiful location.
So the first morning, I grabbed my XE3 with the 18-55 mounted and headed down the steep wet stairs to the dock. I made it about three steps and my feet went flying out from under me. Made a very painful landing on my back, shook the house (still bleeding five days later). But the most terrible thing was seeing my camera and lens separated. The lens base was still attached to the body, but other parts spread about the stairs.
I was very impressed that the XE3 was not damaged at all. Probably because of the protection provided by the attached MHG (probably the most important point to this post). But saddened to lose my most used lens.
I contacted Fujifilm support this morning for a repair estimate. Best case scenario $300 to repair, worst case $570. now to decide to repair (if at the low end of the estimate), replace with a used one, or wait for the 16-80 to arrive on the market. Unfortunately the size of the 16-80 looks like it might be more of a pairing for my XT2, and I really liked the size of the 18-55 for the XE bodies. Looks like a good time to focus on my primes with the XE for a while.
I have no idea why I’m sharing this with you folks but thought someone might find it interesting. I’ll post some photos taken with my other gear soon. Here’s a pic of the lens.
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Orléans market place
XT1 & 18-135
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hello All,
as the title says it, you sometimes have to be lucky enough to be able to make such a photo
Greetings Jakke
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Morning light on the discarded ice chunks of the Knik Glacier. Shot in ACROS film sim with the X-T2 and XF 100-400mm lens. I love using the 100-400 for landscapes, especially on clear, cool days. Under these kinds of conditions, it's crazy sharp!…
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I just got the 23mm f2 lens for street photography. When shooting street, do you prefer auto focus or zone focus? Should I just set it manual to focus to 12 feet with f8? or just use auto focus since this lens focus fast…
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Here are some photos of a flash bracket I made for my X100F. I wanted something small and light, so I took a piece of 1 inch aluminum bar stock, turned some finger grooves on it in my lathe, and then drilled and tapped each end for 1/4-20 steel thread inserts. If you are going to be taking it apart frequently, tapping the aluminum directly is not a good idea -- the thread inserts are far more robust.
I then took a piece of 1/8 inch flat stock and cut the camera support. I only made it long enough to stop at the battery door -- so I could access the battery and memory card without disassembling.
I picked up two knobs at the hardware store to secure the handle and camera, and installed a flash shoe on top.
Works great. Naturally, this is not a project for the average do-it-your-selfer. I used a small lathe, milling machine, band saw, and belt sander to complete the project.
Waiting for some rubber sheeting to glue to the bracket to provide a non-slip surface for the camera.
Total construction time about 2.5 hours.
bracket #5.jpg
bracket #1.jpg
bracket #2.jpg
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Hi Everybody!
My first post here and I hope this of interest to at least some of you.
After using the X100T and the X100F for the past few years, I felt it was time to enter the wonderful world of the X-Pro 2. It is a camera that has always appealed to me and the step from the X100F felt very natural.
Camera Number One
My new camera arrived along with the 35mm F2 and the 16mm 1.4 lenses. I got a really good bundle deal on the body & 35mm, so I decided to spend more money on (by most accounts) one of Fuji's very best lenses.
I readied the camera, changing all the settings and installed a brass shutter release button that I had previously used on the X100F. I spent a couple of hours shooting but early on, I noticed that the camera wouldn't power up on occasion. After some testing, I estimated it would do this once every 20 start ups. In order to get the camera to boot up again, I would have to remove and reinsert the battery.
Naturally, I was disappointed and the reality hit me that I would have to return the camera to the shop. Everything else about the camera was working perfectly and when the camera was operational, I was really enjoying the shooting experience. After returning the camera & 35mm lens, the shop immediately shipped a new bundle out and it wasn't long before I had the X-Pro 2, back in my hands.
Camera Number Two
Much to my horror, the issue was repeating again. I took the camera with me on a city break to spend some time with it and try to figure out the problem.
It is important to note that I own 3 batteries:

  • 1 x Fujifilm NP-W126S

  • 2 x Patona NP-W126

I decided to take 1 Fujifilm battery and 1 Patona battery with me.
My observations on the first day of shooting was (with either battery):

  • with 35mm lens: camera would not power on approximately 1/20 attempts

  • with 16mm lens: camera would not power on approximately 1/5 attempts

On the second day of the trip a new problem came to the forefront. The battery, no matter which one I was using, would quickly drain and the camera was markedly warm to the touch, especially around the LCD. I decided to leave the camera for the evening and spent the remainder of my time concentrating on drowning my sorrows.
The next day, I switched on the camera and was alarmed to discover the battery had completely drained. I had switched the camera off and left it on a desk. It is important to note that the camera was not touching anything, so could not have been activated by mistake.
Before writing to the camera shop that another body would have to go back, I realised that the only variable that I had not tried to test was the removal of the shutter release button. So, I removed it.
On the third day of the trip, I took the camera out shooting. There was no more warmth coming from the LCD. The battery seemed to be doing much better. However, the power up issue seemed to remain, albeit far less frequent.
Problem solved?

I returned home this morning and proceeded to insert the Patona battery I had left, into the camera.
Lo and behold, after several hours of testing, the camera is working perfectly and I have yet to encounter the issue of the camera not powering on.
I am certainly not an electrician or a camera expert, but it is likely that the brass shutter button is the culprit. I had used the same button for a year on the X100F without any issue. Unfortunately, there is something about it which my X-Pro 2 doesn't enjoy. I figured the thread could be too long and was making contact with something within the hole, therefore interfering with the electronics of the camera.
Regarding the two batteries that suffered the draining, I reckon they have been negatively impacted and are currently not operating as they should. I will need a few more days to see if they return to normal after some charges.
Right now, despite everything running well, I don't want to say that the problem has completely vanished. I will just see how it goes over the next few days. I am also concerned that the shutter button might have caused permanent damage to the internals.

  1. Is anybody aware of issues with shutter buttons, in particular brass ones, interfering with the internals of the Fuji cameras?

  2. Has anybody else had a similar experience to mine?

  3. For anybody that has suffered quick draining of a NP-W126/S battery, did the battery behave differently afterwards and if so, did it recover?

Many thanks for reading :) and I look forward to being a part of this forum going forward.
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Went out the last two mornings to photograph the sunrise. Neither trip went according to plan because the I overslept yesterday and today the weather didn't cooperate and I shattered a $150 ND filter.
Despite the issues, I ended up with these two photos that I'm fairly happy with. CC is always welcome.
1.) Soybean Sunrise - Very foggy morning. Shot with the X-T20 and 35 f/2.
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2.) Stormy "Sunrise" - Sun never broke through the thick dramatic cloud cover. Shot on the X-T20 with the 10-24 f/4 and a 0.6 graduated ND filter.
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I am intending to instal Lightroom 6 ( from a disc rather than the cloud ) onto a new PC.
I have read that there can be compatibility issues between Lightroom 6 and new cameras. Has anybody encountered any problems loading JPEG or RAW images into Lightroom 6 from the X100F?…
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This is the interior of the Northeastern University Department of Bioengineering in Boston, MA.
These are two starkly contrasting images of the same subject, not specifically the same subject, but the same nonetheless. The b&w image was taken with the XT-2 and Rokinon 12mm at the abandoned former headquarters of The Boston Globe newspaper. The “color” image, without much color, was taken with the iPhone X of a spiral staircase at the Northeastern University Department of Bioengineering. After taking the iPhone shot I immediately thought of the juxtaposition between the two images. Although the two subjects provide exactly the same service, they really lack any other similarities. I also found it amusing that the XT-2 took the gritty, ugly and stark image and the iPhone X took the sterile, flowing and enlightened image. I also thought, “what if I had swapped the cameras for each image?” I’ve come to the realization that there are a few fundamental elements that “make” an image a photo; 1 Artist 2 Space/Time 3 Tool/Camera. These three elements together determine the final image, and lends to the overall DNA of the final photograph. I had thought about revisiting the spiral staircase with the XT-2 to come up with a proper image, but I realized that I lost the element of Space/Time. The Artist and Tool would stay the same, but the Space/Time has changed. I guess my point is, I think photos develop organically no matter what tool is being used to capture it, in fact I believe the Tool is the least important element of the process. Keeper images come from those unique moments where creative consciousness meets Space and Time. I wonder if the viewer leans towards one image based solely on the camera that was used or if they lean towards the one that speaks to them. I’d really love to hear the feedback from the Forum on what they find are the important elements of a photograph. Thanks for looking.
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It may not be an X-T3, but it’s a T3 nevertheless. Well, it’s actually a T3N (made 1975-1978), but Konica didn’t consider the changes from the T3 important enough to badge the “N” on the body. I got this and some other gear from the original owner (a neighbor), and it’s almost as good as new, obviously has had very little use. Everything I’ve been able to check so far is in proper working order, but one of my concerns was confirmed upon inspection: she did not remove the meter batteries when she stopped using it back when, and one of them had started leaking. Fortunately, it looks like the camera had been stored bottom side down, so it doesn’t look like any of the leakage found its way up into the body. There is not even any corrosion on the battery contact point, which was wet with that leaking crud, so unless fumes crept up into the body and got some corrosion going, it looks like it should be OK. I’ll know when I get a couple new batteries and test it out. The other possible problem is just age related… the seals around the back cover have turned a bit tacky, on the verge of turning to goo. They’re probably OK for now, but if I start putting this camera to real use, that issue may need to be addressed.
How much did I pay? That's unclear. For $115, I got this camera/lens plus a Rollei Strobonar 280S flash, Tiffen 55mm sky filter, Kalt T-mount adapter for Konica, and a cable release. “But wait, there’s more.” I also got a Bausch & Lomb 15-60x 60mm zoom telescope, Bushnell car window mount (basically a tripod head on a clamp instead of legs), and a Bogen/Manfrotto 3001 tripod with a 3029 3-way head, all in excellent condition. All in all, I guess it was a pretty good score for the money. Photo shot with X-E2 and XF18-55.
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Fujifilm XPro1 + 14mm; 50-230mm
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XE2 + Fujinon XF60mm, SOOC Jpeg, Velvia
DSCF5613 (2).JPG
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