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What would you suggest for a lower cost macro focusing rail for doing stacked macro shots in the 5x to 10x range? Should I be looking at a micrometer driven linear stage? Or just jump straight in with a motor driven device?…
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This came across my radar for Mac DAMs:
Please login to view links by the Escapers $50
Has anyone heard of this, or better still, has any experience or comments?
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As the title implies, this was my first real attempt at Astro-Photography. My family and I were out camping and while at the campfire, I noticed the sky was incredibly clear. So once my girls went to be, I ventured down to the lake with a tripod, camera, 12mm lens and shutter cable. This is what I got with a few more Please login to view links. Overall, I'm happy with the results, but I need to read up on some good technique's for next time.
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My favorite ritual to photograph. Please login to view links.
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Hello all! New to the forums here.
Was looking to get a replacement trim ring for my a x100T i just got (amazing camera by the way, why didnt i get on the fuji bandwagon long before this??) but since it was a used camera, its missing its trim ring. All the threads ive found so far seem to be old threads 2-3 years back saying you have to spend $24 and get it at fuji. Hoping by now there would be some 3rd party alternative, any luck? Thanks!
Or if someone has an extra one in black they want to get rid of =)…
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I was thinking about this last night since I don't have 15+ stops worth of ND filters for my telephoto lens. What about using the electronic shutter which goes up to 1/32,000 of a second? Would that exposure be fast enough to limit the time the shutter is open and prevent damage to the sensor?
Just a thought…
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X100F - Looks like their were going for end of summer splash! Vivid JPGs out of camera. There are more on Smugmug if interested.
Cleared for airshow takeoff.
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Flower Children Bus
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Garden Variety Boat
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Has anyone mailed in their Nissin i40 for firmware update?
With the X-T1 v5.20, does HSS work without using the manual hack/trick?…
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I've been complaining a bit about Sony's sub par software and how complicated and unintuitive things are, but the IQ is superb at least. From today when my wife and I was out and picked raspberries.
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A few doors away from the door I left.
X-T2 14mm f/2.8 1/200 @ f/2.8
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Good Afternoon from London.
I've wanted a Nikkor-S 1:1.2 for a while and, last week, was lucky enough to pick one up attached to a lovey Nikon F2.
Here it is on the front of my XP1. I think this sample dates from about 1967: heaven knows what it's snapped in the past fifty years!
I've tried all sorts of lenses on this camera with all sorts of results - I especially like the Nikkor-H and all manner of M42 screw lenses so I was looking forward to trying this one out.
Initially I was delighted at the results, colour rendering and the razor thin DoF ...
... but these taken were in very low low light.
I was out and about this afternoon and struggled to produce anything that I could honestly say reflects the vivid colours of what I was seeing.
Any tips or thoughts would be welcome…
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A family member gave me a few of their old SLR Contax Zeiss lenses so I decided to take the 28mm out for a quick test today on my X-T10. Here are a few pics. The ergonomics of the lens are top notch along with build quality. I think this thing will outlast me it's built so well....and I'm only in my early 30s!
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I've had a fair amount of what I thought were rather decent/sharp fast primes from Minolta/Pentax etc then I got my first Olympus lens recently, an OM Zuiko MC Auto-S 50mm F1.8 and to my eyes it pops in and out of focus easier than any other lens I've tried, I've found it's very easy to nail focus. The images I get from the Zuiko lens are noticeably sharper wide open and aberration is also very well controlled.
Is it my mind playing tricks on me or is this effect very noticeable with some lenses?
I'm assuming lenses that are very sharp, without as much of that soft halo/glow/haziness that some lenses have when shot wide open, would logically be easier to focus than softer lenses?…
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Hi there, I'm currently working with acros mode, intensifying black areas even more on postprocessing, here are the results, hope you like them.
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I knew it would rain yesterday at the airshow, so I took the 70D as not fussed if it got wet. These shots are using the X-T20 + XC 50-230mm, I had to try just to show for my self that I will not need a longer lens, was very happy with how it coped.
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Hello everyone
I am thinking of buying the 100F as my second, handbag size camera and looking at a small bag specifically just to carry the F.
After looking at a few PD video's for the Field (I was thinking this would suit), a few people mention about the velcro not sticking well but size wise, looks good.
Does anyone use this bag with a 100 so I could see a picture of it ? I wouldn't have any lenses to carry, purely just the 100F and a couple of batteries (!). Anyone got experience with the velcro issue ?
Thanks !
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I have an excellent Sigma 18-35 I rarely use - like the 7D I bought it for. I don't want it to lie around idle so I'd be interested to see how it works on the X-T1. It's over 600 grams so needs a sturdy adaptor. Any recommendations and advice appreciated. Thanks!…
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today being Fuji world photo day, Fuji NZ organised a day of shooting. Dawn to Dusk, from the east coast watching the sun rise, to the rugged west coast. Used the 56 for the sunset. All shots taken with the X-T2.
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Can you please help advising on what X-series camera I should aim for?
I had a X100 in the past, but couldn't learn to use the autofocus. From the moment of the X100f announcement, I knew it was for me. I am very satisfied with it, and it is my only camera at the moment. I love handling it, its look and the IQ. I even love "wearing" it -- it's hard to explain (especially since I would prefer it to be slightly lighter!), but when I carry it around on the street, I somehow feel... cool!
Anyway, I use it mainly for shooting street/architecture, social gatherings, cats, and a bit of nature. With the new sensor, I can crop, as the FL is a bit wide for my taste.
Every now and then I miss a camera with the possibility of changing lens, and being able to shoot macro. Especially flower close ups is an interest of mine. Maybe a bit more portraiture-friendly FL as well.
So I'm eyeing the X-series. And it seems to be different model-series aimed at different groups of photographers.
I am an amateur, don't need WR, and I prefer my cameras as small and light as possible. I had a X70, and did survive without a viewfinder (didn't like the FL and the relatively limited crop possibilities though), but enjoy the OVF of the X100f. I also want a relatively quick autofocus (cats don't wait around...). I am very happy with the 24MB sensor of the X100f, I crop my photos quite much, and don't think I can go "back".
I'm not in a hurry, in fact I am still debating whether I need another camera. But I think the release of the XF 80 mm macro will make the need final. That lens, and perhaps the XF 35mm f/2, might cover what the X100f doesn't. I plan to keep the X100f.
From what I have read, the X-E3 might be "the" camera for me. I understand that even though it's not released, it is expected soon.
What kind of X-series camera would you recommend for me, based on what I have described above?
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Obviously, one of the more frustrating things for those of us with earlier Fuji cameras is the lack of the later Film Simulations, especially the ACROS B&W simulation.
Fortunately, Nik Silver Efex has ACROS as an option.
I returned to Sacramento's Press Club this last Monday (yes a Monday show) for a wonderful Punch and Pie Productions bill featuring my husband's band Mezcal Aces, The Creston Line and local songwriter Pete Barker.
The ACROS sim seemed to perfectly suit many of the shots I captured there.
Taken with an X-E1 and either a Fuji 18-55 or Konica 50 1.4
RAW conversion in Silkypix 2.0 and B&W conversion in PS CC via Silver Efex plugin.
Creston Line BWwmforum.jpg
Mezcal Aces BW 1wmforum.jpg
Mezcal Aces BW 4wmforum.jpg
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Where in N.Z. can you get a screen replaced? Or is it easy to do it your self? I want some one ( shop etc ) that knows what it's doing…
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Recently, I have been toying with the idea of picking up an older non AI NIkkor 24/2.8 (mostly because I have been really happy with my other non AI Nikkors) but I am having trouble finding a source that thinks that the Nikkor 24/2.8's are anything but bland. What appeals to me is the fact that they have nice close focusing abilities and while I don't generally like to use 24mm lenses since I sold all of mine I realize that every now and again they come in handy..
I may just pick one up to find out for myself but I thought I'd ask and see if anyone had any insight…
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Digital zoom should produce raws files…
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No holds barred in this thread, any body, any lens, any subject, although Fuji photos would be preferred.
X-T1, 18-55mm. SOOC, but "fixed" in Apple Photo on my iPad.
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Today and tomorrow there is a hot air balloon and blues festival in Hudson, MA for those in the New England area…
I got myself two TT350f and an X1Tf. First disappointment was that they don´t work wirelessly on my X100F, but I won´t discuss that now. My biggest disappointment is actually this:
When I have the X1Tf on my Fuji XT-2, it works perfectly with the TT350f EXCEPT:
I am used to, and reliant on an instant or "as-good-as-instant response" from my camera, when I press down on the shutter release, but as soon as the X1Tf is in the hot shoe (and turned on) the shutter response is transformed into a very sluggish affair. I have no way to measure this in milliseconds, but to give you an idea: If I press the shutter button and try to lift my finger again as fast as possible, with the X1Tf in the hotshoe, the shutter is activated when my finger is on the way up. Without the X1Tf, the shutter is activated when the finger goes down.
This may not be something that everybody notices, but I suggest this test: Mount the X1Tf in the hotshoe (of your X-T2), but turned off. This is the normal shutter response. Now turn the X1Tf on and feel the sluggish response. If you shoot stuff that moves fast (I do) this is a big issue.
I would be very interested in getting a couple of AD200´s also, but as long as this sluggishness persists, I will not go that way, but rely on old technology with instant response…
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Here's a few from a cemetery near us. We rode our bikes there. Shot with 10-24 and X-T2. SOOC.
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Is anyone aware of a Canon EF to Fuji XF lens adapter with electric contacts?
Does anyone know a way to adjust aperture on an Canon EF lens on an X-T2 body using an adapter with no electric contacts?
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Another mini for my collection of Mini front ends and yes it's brown!
X-T2 + 23mm 1.4 @ 1/100 f 6.4 ISO 400
Brown Mini.jpg
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The tree.png
X-T2, Fujinon 10-24mm, 12 mm, ISO 200, 1/6000, f4.0…
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I'm pondering to splurge on a Novoflex ball head - either the CB3 II or the CB5 II. They have a load capacity of 17 vs 26 lbs, respectively. In theory the CB3 should probably suffice for e.g. an X-T2 with the 100-400. But I was wondering, if anyone has practical experience with either of these heads and their Fuji equipment?…
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Anyome have issues after having their Nissin i60a updated for the HSS feature? Seems I can't control anything from camera and also cant turn HSS off on the flash itself...
It seems the channel/sound/m.zoom/hss buttons do nothing when depressed or held down.
Anyone else?…
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I replaced my full frame system with Fuji because of weight. So, of course, I agree with Andy.
His review below
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Not the usual scene on my dog walk - I think this might be a Styracosaurus on a fork. Always good to have the camera at hand - though the dog wasn't too impressed. It's part of the forthcoming Jurassic Kingdom event at Glasgow Botanic Gardens.
dinosaur 1.jpg